. 


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Ho ! for  the  G-reat 

WONDERLAND 


THE 

Northern  Pacific  Railroad 

Is  the  BEST  ROUTE  to  tlie 


PULLMAN  PALAGE  SLEEPING  GARS  THE  ENTIRE  TRIP. 


For  further  particulars  see  chapter  on  ‘‘Ways  of  Beaching  and 
Cost  of  Visiting  the  Park,”  on  page  95  of  this  book,  or  address 


G. 


K.  BARNES, 

General  Passenger  and  Ticket  Agent, 

ST.  PAUL,  MINN. 


THE 


Yellowstone  National  Park, 


OR  THE 

Great  American  W onderland, 

A New,  Complete  and  Accurate  Description  of  the 

NATIONAL  PARK  AND  ALL  ITS  WONDERS, 

Written  in  the  Order  of  a Tour  by 

*-W.  W.  WYLIE,  B.  S.,  A.  M> 

Who  has  Made  Three  Complete  Tours  of 

WONDERLAND 

FOE  THE  EXPRESS  PURPOSE  OF  PREPARING  A RELI- 
ABLE BOOK. 


To'urists  who  use  this  Book  will  find  it  unnecessary  to  employ 
Guides.  Those  who  cannot  visit  the  Park  will  find  the  Book  an  ex- 
cellent substitute.  Sent  to  any  address  on  receipt  of  price,  $1.00,  in 
Neat  Cloth,  Stiff  Cover,  or  75  cents,  in  Flexible  Cloth. 

Send  to  W.  W.  WYLIE, 

BOZEMAN,  M.  T. 


Or  the  Publishers. 


ini 


PEARL  POOLS,  MAMMOTH  SPRINGS. 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK; 


OR  THE 

GREAT  AMERICAN 

WONDERLAND, 

A COMPLETE  DESCRIPTION  OF  ALL  THE  WONDERS  OF 
THE  PARK,  TOGETHER  WITH  DISTANCES,  AL- 
TITUDES, AND  SUCH  OTHER  INFOR- 
MATION AS  THE  TOURIST  OR 
GENERAL  READER 
DESIRES. 

A COMPLETE  HAND,  OR  GUIDE  BOOK  FOR  TOURISTS. 


By  W.  W.  WYLIE. 


WITH  ILLUSTRATIONS  FROM  PHOTOGRAPHS 
BY  H.  B.  COFFEE. 


KANSAS  CITY,  MO.: 

Publishing  House  of  Ramsey,  Millett  & Hudson. 

1882. 


Entered  According  to  an  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  One  Thousand 
Eight  Hundred  and  Eighty -Two, 

By  W.  W.  WYLIE, 

In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington,  D.  C. 


PREFACE. 


This  little  book  is  not  offered  as  a scientific  descrip- 
tion of  the  National  Park , nor  is  it  written  for  an  induce- 
ment to  those  who  may  read  it  to  visit  the  Park,  neither 
as  the  recital  of  the  experiences  of  one  who  has  visited 
this  remarkable  land,  but  for  the  following  reason : — 
The  author,  in  a tour  of  the  Park,  saw  the  very  evi- 
dent need  of  a plain,  simple  hand-book  to  guide  and  aid 
the  tourist  in  his  rambles  in  Wonderland. 

All  tourists  do  not  feel  able  to  hire  guides ; and  since 
plain  roads  are  now  open  to  all  points  of  interest,  what 
is  needed,  it  seemed  to  the  author,  is  a real  guide-book. 
It  :was  during  this  first  tour  of  Wonderland  that  the 
purpose  was  originated  to  try  to  prepare  such  a book. 

First,  the  author  examined  all  the  books  he  could 
find  written  about  the  National  Park,  whether  intended 
for  guide-books  or  not.  But  no  real  guide-book  has  he 
found;  but  several  books,  written  by  persons  who  had 
made  hasty  trips  through  this  great  Wonderland,  were 
enraptured  by  what  they  found,  and  wrote  to  describe 


4 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


the  marvelous  wonders,  and  to  give  their  own  and  their 
associates’  experiences. 

These  books  are  indeed  very  interesting,  but  as 
guide-books  they  are  failures,  and  doubtless  never  were 
intended  to  be  used  as  such.  Then,  most  of  these  books 
are  old;  and  since  the  Park,  through  the  enterprise  and 
perseverance  of  the  Superintendent,  Col.  P.  W.  Norris, 
has  developed  or  brought  to  view  so  many  new  wonders 
within  the  past  two  years , such  books  must  necessarily 
be  out  of  date  for  the  tourist  of  to-day. 

Having  formed  the  purpose  to  write  a guide  and 
description  book,  the  author  made  two  more  careful 
tours  of  the  Park,  in  order  to  as  thoroughly  as  possible 
fit  himself  for  the  task;  and  as  he  met  hundreds  of 
tourists  in  this  land  the  present  summer,  many  with- 
out guides  at  all,  and  others  with  grossly  incompetent 
ones,  he  became  all  the  more  firmly  convinced  of  the  great 
need  of  just  such  a book  as  he  has  attempted  to  make  of 
this  little  volume.  How  well  he  has  succeeded,  remains 
for  those  to  say  who  have  either  visited  the  Park,  and 
may  read  it,  or  who  may  see  fit  to  take  it  with  them  as 
they  go. 

Enthusiastic  descriptions  of  objects  and  scenery  have 
not  been  attempted.  Occasionally,  however,  a fine  de- 
scription is  quoted  from  some  other  author,  whose  name 
is  always  found  in  connection. 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


5 


The  author  has  observed,  while  witnessing  very 
many  people  beholding  for  the  first  time  these  great 
wonders,  that  they  like  to  form  their  own  opinions  and 
descriptions  of  what  they  see ; so  he  has  endeavored  to 
be  very  plain  in  his  explanations,  answering  only  those 
questions  that  are  most  likely  to  be  put  to  a competent 
guide. 

The  most  the  author  hopes  to  hear  said  of  his  book 
is  that  it  is  plain , truthful , and  practical. 

Compared  with  other  literary  productions  on  the 
same  subject,  he  expects  it  to  fall;  compared  with  the 
great  National  Park  and  its  wonders,  he  expects  it  to 

W.  W.  WYLIE. 


STAND. 


CONTENTS. 


Page. 

Preface 3. 

Introduction 9 

Mammoth  Hot  Springs  and  Surroundings J3 

Falls  of  Middle  Gardner  River 16 

Departure  from  Mammoth  Springs 16 

Rustic  Falls .....17 

Willow  Park — Fine  Camp 17 

Obsidian  Cliff 18 

Lake  of  the  Woods 19 

Norris  Geyser  Basin 19 

Gibbon  or  Basin  Meadows 21 

Paint  Pots  and  Blood  Geyser 21 

Monument  Geyser  Basin.. 22 

Game  in  the  Park.  .......23 

Gibbon  Canon 24 

Gibbon  Falls 24 

Lower  Geyser  Basin 26 

Difficulty  with  Tourist 25 

Fountain  Geyser — Lower  Basin 27 

Mud  or  Paint  Pots  in  Lower  Basin 28 

Middle  Geyser  Basin  (Devil’s  Half  Acre) 29 

Sheridan  Geyser 31 

Upper  Geyser  Basin .....31 


Great  American  Wonderland.  7 

Old  Faithful  Geyser ...32 

The  Castle 33 

Devil’s  Well 33 

Bee-hive  Geyser 35 

Giantess  Geyser 36 

Lion,  Lioness  and  Two  Cubs 36 

Grand  Geyser 37 

Saw-mill  Geyser 39 

Splendid  Geyser 39 

Comet...  40 

The  Grotto 41 

Fan  and  Riverside ....41 

The  Giant 41 

General  View  of  Upper  Basin 44 

Smoke  in  the  Park 45 

Forests  of  Park.. 45 

From  Upper  Basin  to  Lake 46 

Shoshone  Trail  to  Lake ...46 

Hot  Springs  Camp  on  Lake 47 

Yellowstone  Lake ., 47 

Drinking' Geyser  Water ...48 

Fish  in  Yellowstone  Lake ..48 

Natural  Bridge 50 

Road  to  Mud  Geysers  via  Lower  Basin  and  Mary’s  Lake..... 51 

Mud  Geysers 51 

Sulphur  Mountain ... 53 

Sulphur  Mountain  to  Falls 55 

Upper  Falls  of  Yellowstone ..56 

Lower  Falls 57 


8 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


The  Grand  Cafion 59 

Twin  Falls  and  Safety  Valve  Geyser 63 

Crystal  Falls 64 

Mount  Washburn 64 

Tower  Falls 68 

Baronet’s  Bridge 70 

Petrified  Forest 70 

East  Gardner  Falls...... 71 

Hoodoo  Basin  .. 71 

Specimen  Mountain 72 

Soda  Butte  Springs... 72 

Theory  of  Causes  of  Geyser  Action .73 

Earliest  Publications  Concerning  the  Park ...74 

The  Yellowstone  Park  by  Prof.  Hayden ...79 

Practical  Observations 85 

Table  of  Distances 89 

Table  of  Altitudes 90 

Rules  and  Regulations  of  the  Park 91 

Ways  of  Reaching  and  Cost  of  Getting  to  the  Park 95 


INTRODUCTION. 


All  books,  save  one,  that  I have  seen  descriptive  of 
the  Park,  begin  with  a description  of  the  route  from 
Bozeman.  This  has  hitherto  been  considered  the  only 
natural  route  of  entry  to  the  Park.  It  is  from  this 
point  that  Prof.  Hayden  and  other  official  and  scientific 
visitors  have  entered,  and  Colonel  Harris,  the  Superin- 
tendent of  Park,  outfits  at  Bozeman  and  enters  from 
there.  However,  last  season  a road  was  opened  into 
the  Park  direct  from  Virginia  City,  but  I find  tourists, 
generally,  complaining  greatly  of  an  immense  hill  or 
mountain  to  be  climbed  by  this  route.  From  Virginia 
City  to  the  Park  is  ninety-eight  miles.  From  Bozeman  to 
Mammoth  Hot  Springs  is  seventy-three  miles ; the  road 
following  up  the  Yellowstone  River  being  a pleasant 
and  good  one.  For  the  following  reasons  the  natural  and 
most  satisfactory  way  to  visit  the  Park  is  to  enter  at 
Mammoth  Hot  Springs,  and  go  around  by  the  Geyser 
Basins,  over  to  Lake,  down  by  Falls  and  Canon,  and 
back  to  Mammoth  Springs,  just  as  indicated  in  this 
Guide-book. 

The  reasons  are  these:  By  this  route  all  the  objects 

of  interest  are  seen  in  order  of  a climax,  the  less  inter- 
esting after  leaving  Mammoth  Springs  first,  and  the 


10 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


more  wonderful  towards  the  last.  In  this  way  the 
tourist  is  always  deeply  interested,  and  fully  appreciates 
what  he  sees;  while  if  he  enters  at  the  upper  end  of  Park, 
he  sees  the  most  wonderful  first.  These  objects  of  lesser 
importance  have  very  little  interest  to  him  afterwards, 
and  are  only  seen  with  something  of  a disappointed 
feeling.  The  objects  of  interest,  arranged  in  their 
natural  order,  and  in  the  order  seen  as  described  in  this 
book,  are  as  follows  : — 

First,  the  Mammoth  Springs.  This  is  by  no  means 
one  of  the  minor  objects  of  interest,  but  it  is  so  entirely 
different  from  anything  else  seen  in  the  Park  that  it 
will  very  appropriately  come  first.  Then,  too,  it  gives 
the  tourist  a wonderfully  satisfied  feeling  to  behold  this 
marvelously  beautiful  wonder  upon  his  very  entrance  to 
Wonderland.  He  is  at  once  possessed  with  a satisfied 
feeling,  confesses  that  he  feels  repaid  already  for  the  ex 
pense  and  trouble  of  the  trip,  and  he  is  started  on 
from  here  with  a satisfied  air. 

Next  in  their  order  are  Rustic  Falls,  Obsidian  Cliff, 
Lake  of  the  Woods,  Norris  Geyser  Basin,  Paint  Pots, 
Monument  Geyser  Basin,  Gibbon  Canon,  Gibbon 
Falls,  Lower  Geyser  Basin,  and  last,  the  great  crown- 
ing point  of  all  wonders,  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin. 
By  this  time  the  tourist  experiences  a full  sense 
of  satisfaction,  so  far  as  the  wonderful  is  concerned. 
He  feels  a strong  desire  to  witness  what  in  the  Park 
may  be  classed  more  accurately  under  the  head  of  the 
grand  and  beautiful;  so  he  is  taken  across  to  the  Lake. 
He  experiences  a sense  of  relief  at  getting  away  from 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


11 


the  odor  and  sight  of  so  much  hot  water.  From  the 
rest  and  quietness  at  the  Lake,  he  is  taken  to  the  Great 
Falls  and  Grand  Canon.  Here  the  sensation  is  that  of 
quiet  wonder  and  amazement,  while  at  the  Geysers  it  is 
that  of  excited  wonder  and  delight.  At  the  former  place 
he  desires,  as  he  beholds,  neither  to  speak  nor  be  spoken 
to;  while  at  the  Geysers  he  cannot  himself  refrain  from 
shouting.  Hence  it  is  not  onty  from  our  own  experi- 
ence, but  from  that  of  others  frequently  heard  ex- 
pressed, that  we  conclude  that  the  cause  or  order  given 
in  this  little  work  is  the  most  natural  and  satisfactory 
way  in  which  to  view  the  Park.  This  is  a fact  which  the 
Northern  Pacific  Railroad  will,  no  doubt,  take  advan- 
tage of  in  their  subsequent  advertisement  of  the  Park. 
This  road  is  now  rapidly  advancing,  and,  I am  author- 
itatively informed,  will  reach  the  point  of  their  line 
nearest  the  boundary  of  the  Park  the  coming  season; 
and  it  is  their  purpose  to  immediately  construct  a 
branch  road  leading  into  the  Park,  for  the  express 
accommodation  of  tourists. 

For  the  many  who  enter  the  Park  from  Virginia 
City  or  that  way,  the  book  will  be  found  to  answer  just 
as  well,  as  they  will  only  need  to  turn  to  the  part  in- 
dexed “ Lower  Geyser  Basin,”  page  25,  and  follow  it 
through;  turning  to  first  part  when  they  come  to  Mam- 
moth Springs,  and  following  it  up  to  “ Lower  Geyser 
Basin.” 


12 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


BATH  POOLS,  MAMMOTH  SPRINGS. 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 

MAMMOTH  HOT  SPRINGS. 

This  portion  of  the  Park  is  the  most  difficult  to  de- 
scribe, and  for  this  reason  the  accompanying  cuts  are 
given,  believing  that  a better  idea  can  be  gained  from 
these  than  from  any  description  lean  give.  These  illus- 
trations are  from  photographs  taken  by  Mr.  H.  B.  Colfee, 
and  some  idea  of  the  extent  of  this  great  mountain  of 
springs  may  be  obtained  from  the  statement  that  hun- 
dreds of  photographs  might  be  taken  of  these  Springs, 
each  being  entirely  different  from  any  of  the  others. 
This  mountain  has  grown,  and  is  still  growing  toward 
the  East.  These  springs  are  arranged  in  terraces,  one 
above  the  other,  the  water  depositing  the  sediment  which 
forms  the  growth,  as  it  runs  over  the  edges  of  these  beau- 
tiful bowls.  The  springs  are  constantly  changing  ; wa- 
ter is  not  running  over  all  these  bowls — some  seem  to  be 
deserted  entirely ; others  are  left  dry  for  a year  or  two, 
then  water  comes  into  them  again.  Those  which  are 
dry  are  snow-white,  while  those  which  are  active  are 


14 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


colored — by  ingredients  of  the  water — sometimes  red,  in- 
dicating the  presence  of  iron  in  the  water ; at  others 
bright  yellow,  indicating  sulphur ; and  there  are  many 
other  bright  and  beautiful  tints,  one  of  the  most  beauti- 
ful of  which  is  a delicate  green.  But  all  turn  to  snow- 
white  as  soon  as  the  water  deserts  them. 

The  water  is  always  perfectly  clear,  and  the  chief 
attraction  of  the  whole  scene,  to  many,  is  the  beautiful 
wave-motion  as  it  spreads  over  the  sides  of  these  bowls, 
and  at  one  place,  over  almost  the  whole  side  of  the 
mountain,  of  equal  depth  but  very  shallow;  thus  it  is 
that  the  whole  grows  evenly.  The  temperature  of  the 
water  is  usually  166°.  On  the  summit  of  the  Main  Ter- 
race, are  little  lakes  of  this  boiling  water,  from  which 
most  of  the  water  comes.  A person  can  walk  over  this 
formation,  and  even  on  the  rims  of  the  active  pools, 
without  danger.  At  some  places  are  erected  racks,  where 
the  water  is  running  over  in  a quantity,  upon  which  ar- 
ticles are  hung  for  the  purpose  of  getting  them  coated, 
which  is  done  plentifully  in  about  twro  and  one-half 
days.  The  present  season  it  has  been  the  rage  to  coat 
horseshoes.  Silver,  glass,  wood  or  leather  will  take  this 
coating  just  as  well  as  iron.  The  formation  is  composed 
of  lime,  soda,  alumina  and  magnesia. 

The  author  realizes  that  this  is  a very  poor  descrip- 
tion of  these  marvelous  springs,  but  a more  particular 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


15 


description  would  consume  too  much  space.  Trusting 
that,  with  the  accompanying* illustrations,  what  has 
been  said  may  serve  to  give  some  idea  of  their  appear- 
ance, we  leave  the  subject. 

There  are  other  objects  than  the  springs  themselves 
of  great  interest.  In  this  locality,  at  different  places  on 
the  large  flat  below  the  springs  formation,  are  found 
openings  which  lead  to  great  caves.  Into  some  of  these 
a person  may  descend  from  50  to  150  feet.  Liberty  Cup 
is  also  found  near  the  base  of  Springs  Mountain.  It  is 
nothing  more  than  the  crater  of  an  extinct  geyser.  It  is 
forty-seven  feet  high,  and  has  a small  opening  in  the  top. 
There  is  a supply  store  here,  and  hotel  also.  There  are 
bath-houses  kept  up  by  the  proprietor  of  the  hotel,  and 
rented  at  a small  fee.  The  National  Park  Capitol,  or 
Headquarters  Building,  is  situated  on  the  summit  of  a 
high  hill,  or  knoll,  just  east  of  Springs  Mountain.  A 
post-office,  with  weekly  mail  service,  is  kept  here,  the 
only  post-office  at  present  near  the  Park,  the  daily  mail 
service  of  last  season,  into  and  through  the  Park,  having 
been  discontinued,  a result  of  the  Star  Route  investi- 
gations. 

Another  interesting  feature  of  this  hot-water  local- 
ity is  a beautiful  cold-water  stream,  coming  from  an  ice- 
cold  spring  a short  distance  back  of  the  hotel.  It  is  a 
boon  to  be  prized  in  this  locality. 


16 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


FALLS  OF  MIDDLE  GARDNER  RIVER. 

These  Falls  and  canon  below  are  about  five  miles 
from  the  Springs,  directly  south;  a good  trail  leads  to 
them.  The  canon  is,  in  itself,  a sight  well  worth  the 
short  ride  required  to  reach  it,  but  the  Falls  are  the  chief 
interest  here.  The  water  falls  in  the  form  of  a cascade 
300  feet ; 100  feet  of  this  is  a direct  fall. 

DEPARTURE  FROM  MAMMOTH  SPRINGS. 

Leaving  the  Mammoth  Springs,  the  tourist  begins 
the  ascent  of  Terrace  Mountain,  over  the  excellently 
graded,  but  wonderfully  steep  wagon  road,  leading  to  the 
right  of  the  Hot  Springs’  terraces  With  a loaded  wagon 
and  four  horses,  this  three  miles  of  ascent  is  a fair  half 
day’s  work.  It  is  not  one  continuous  grade  or  hill,  but  a 
succession  of  hills,  with  short  resting  slopes  between. 
After  an  ascent  of  nearly  3,000  feet,  the  road  enters  a 
beautiful,  high,  meadowed  valley,  and  takes  an  almost 
direct  southward  course,  with  a few  slight  variations  to 
and  through  the  three  Geyser  Basins.  After  entering 
this  valley  and  traveling  about  one  and  a half  miles 
southward  upon  the  main  road,  a dim  trail  is  found 
leading  off  to  the  left.  Following  this  for  a distance 
of  one-half  mile  brings  the  tourist  to  the  upper  entrance 
of  the  beautiful  canon  of  the  West  Gardner,  and  just  at 
the  entrance  to  the  canon  is  found 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


17 


RUSTIC  FALLS. 

Sights  well  worth  the  expenditure  of  much  m#re 
time  and  trouble  than  it  requires  to  reach  them. 

The  water  falls  here  sixty  feet  over  a large  slightly 
curved  rock  of  this  height,  whose  surface  is  wrought  into 
shallow  scallops,  or  cup-like  forms,  on  its  surface,  which 
causes  the  water,  in  falling,  to  take  the  peculiar  shapes 
which  give  rise  to  the  name  “ Rustic  Falls.”  These  Falls 
are  five  miles  from  the  starting  point  at  springs. 

About  four  miles  farther  on,  a clear,  rapid  stream 
running  eastward  is  forded.  This  is  one  of  the  branches 
of  the  Middle  Gardner ; and  another  is  crossed  in  less 
than  a mile  farther  on.  Although  in  appearance  a fine 
trout  stream,  there  are  no  fish  of  any  kind  in  them ; and 
that  the  patience  of  those  who  delight  in  sport  with  rod 
and  line  may  be  reserved  for  necessary  occasions,  the 
author  will  here  state  that  no  fish  can  be  found  before 
reaching  Yellowstone  Lake , in  this  tour  of  Wonderland. 
This  fact  will  be  admitted  as  one  of  the  Wonders. 

WILLOW  PARK — FINE  CAMP. 

About  fifteen  miles  from  the  springs,  just  before 
entering  Obsidian  Canon,  is  Willow  Park,  one  of  the 
finest  camping  places  in  the  Park.  No  tourists  should 
attempt  to  go  farther  than  from  the  Springs  to  this  point 
in  one  day  with  wagons,  as  it  is  about  ten  miles  before 


18 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


another  good  camping  place  is  reached.  From  Willow 
Park  it  is  two  miles  to  Obsidian  Cliff  and  Beaver  Lake. 

OBSIDIAN  CLIFF 

Is  composed  of  basaltic  columns  of  volcanic  glass,  a species 
of  lava.  It  is  deep  black  but  clear  and  beautiful.  Some 
fine  specimens  of  red  are  found  among  it.  Many  beauti- 
ful specimens  of  this  material  can  be  picked  up  here — as 
the  road  has  been  quarried  out  from  the  edge  of  the  cliff, 
and  the  horses  tread  over  the  finest  specimens  of  it. 

It  takes  its  name,  according  to  Pliny,  from  a person 
named  Obsidius,  who  first  found  it  in  Ethiopia.  The 
little  stream  passing  here  is  also  one  of  the  branches  of 
the  Middle  Gardner  River.  About  two  miles  farther  on 
the  road  leads  over  a high  hill,  the  divide  between  the 
waters  of  the  Gardner,  which  flow  into  the  Yellowstone, 
and  the  Gibbon,  which  flow  into  the  Madison  River. 

On  the  right,  as  one  ascends  this  hill,  is  seen  the  first 
indication  of  geyser  basins.  This  one  is  of  little  in- 
terest, however,  there  being  nothing  active  there  now ; 
simply  some  boiling  springs  having  a very  disagreeable 
odor. 

From  the  summit  of  this  hill,  looking  toward  the 
west,  is  obtained  one  of  the  finest  views  of  mountain 
scenery  anywhere  to  be  found.  These  mountains  are  of 
the  Madison  Range. 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


19 


LAKE  OF  THE  WOODS. 

On  the  summit  of  this  divide,  is  a beautiful  little  lake, 
seen  at  left  of  road,  and  called  “Lake  of  the  Woods;”  a 
very  appropriate  title,  surrounded  as  it  is  by  a dense 
growth  of  lofty  pines. 

Along  the  road  for  the  next  two  miles,  are  seen  many 
evidences  of  former  geysers’  and  warm  springs’  action. 

Soon  after  the  road  enters  Norris  Geyser  Basin,  a 
beautiful  park.  Fine  camping  grounds,  as  there  is 
plenty  of  excellent  grass,  and  easy  picketing  for  horses. 
Numerous  cold-water  springs  close  to  the  road  on  the 
right,  and  wood  (as  is  always  the  case)  plentiful. 

Nearly  five  miles  farther  on  the  Norris  Fork  of  Gib- 
bon is  crossed.  Here  also  is  good  camping  ground.  By 
stopping  here,  tourists  can  make  thorough  inspection  of 
the  Norris  Geyser  Basin,  which  is  located  on  each  side 
of  the  road  one-half  mile  ahead. 

NORRIS  GEYSER  BASIN. 

At  first  sight  this  Basin  does  not  present  a very 
pleasing  appearance.  But  upon  close  inspection  and 
examination,  there  are  found  many  things  of  wonderful 
interest  and  beauty.  Passing  along  the  ridge  from  sign- 
board to  the  right,  many  boiling  springs  and  pools  are 
found  of  different  colors — yellow  as  pure  sulphur,  blue 
as  the  sky,  white  as  snow,  and  dark  as  ink.  Large  fry- 


20 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


ing  pans,  hissing  and  steaming  with  intense  heat; 
under-ground  rumblings,  reminding  one  at  once  of  the 
sound  of  burs  and  machinery  in  an  immense  flouring 
mill. 

On  the  flat  toward  the  southwest,  is  seen  a geyser 
called  the  “Constant,”  spouting  twice  every  minute,  and 
the  first  geyser  seen  by  tourists  entering  the  Park  from 
this  way.  A small  geyser,  like  a beautiful  fountain,  near 
the  Constant,  is  going  all  the  time.  Farther  along  the 
road  at  the  highest  point  in  this  Basin  and  about  twenty- 
five  yards  to  the  right  of  the  road  is  a mud  geyser  which 
operates  about  every  twenty  minutes.  It  throws  its 
lead-colored  mixture  to  the  height  of  about  ten  feet; 
some  spurts  are  much  higher.  The  mixture  is  about 
the  consistency  of  thick  paint.  During  the  pulsations, 
which  last  about  eight  minutes,  the  forms  which  the 
muddy  water  assumes  are  most  grotesque  and  beautiful; 
and  after  the  eruption  has  ceased,  and  the  water  has  all 
run  back  into  the  orifice,  the  observer  can  obtain  from 
the  crater  some  of  the  finest  specimens  found  in  the 
Park. 

At  the  left  of  the  road,  and  within  one  rod  of  it  at 
the  same  place,  is  the  “Emerald  Pool,”  which  many 
have  pronounced  the  most  beautiful  thing  in  all  Wonder- 
land ; and  for  simple  beauty  it  surely  cannot  be  sur- 
passed. The  water  is  a beautiful  emerald  green — clear 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


21 


as  crystal.  The  coral  walls,  most  beautifully  shaped, 
can  be  seen  to  an  appalling  depth.  By  all  means , spend 
some  time  at  this  beautiful  pool.  Look  into  it  from  all 
sides. 

Farther  along  the  road,  and  just  at  the  foot  of  the  hill, 
is  the  “ Minute  Man  Geyser;”  and  up  against  the  bluff, 
east  of  this,  is  a geyser  called  the  ‘‘Mammoth,”  which 
throws  a large  quantity  of  water  to  the  height  of  about 
100  feet,  and  discharges  about  once  in  twenty-four  hours. 
There  are  a few  other  geysers  in  this  Basin,  but  they  are 
not  of  special  interest.  This  Basin  was  not  visited  by  or. 
known  to  the  earlier  visitors  and  explorers  of  the  Park. 
So  there  is  no  description  of  it  found  in  their  works. 

GIBBON  BASIN  OR  MEADOWS. 

Six  miles  farther  on,  is  the  Gibbon  Basin , a beautiful 
meadow  about  five  miles  in  circumference,  surrounded  by 
thickly  wooded  hills  and  mountains,  the  Gibbon  River 
meandering  quietly  through  it.  It  is  not  needful  to 
mention  that  this  is  a fine  camping  place,  but  tourists 
need  to  be  cautioned  not  to  continue  their  journey  from 
this  place  in  the  after  part  of  the  day,  as  there  is  no 
grass  between  here  and  Lower  Geyser  Basin,  which  is 
seventeen  miles  distant. 

PAINT  POTS  AND  BLOOD  GEYSER. 

Passing  around  the  bluff  eastward  from  this  Basin, 


22 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


are  found — one-half  mile  distant — the  beautiful  Paint  Pots 
and  a Blood  Geyser.  Many  tourists  have  difficulty  in 
finding  these.  Follow  into  the  timber  at  the  point 
where  there  is  a pen  of  logs  thrown  together  for  helping 
to  catch  horses;  a blazed  trail  will  be  found  at  this 
point.  This  is  at  the  southeast  corner  of  Basin,  close  to 
the  wagon  road,  and  near  the  little  stream  that  comes  in 
there,  called  Geyser  Creek.  The  water  of  the  Geyser  comes 
through  the  red  mud,  and  thus  the  water  is  colored ; 
home  the  name  “Blood  Geyser.”  This  Geyser  is  irregu- 
lar, acting  two  or  three  times  each  day.  The  Paint  Pots 
are  very  fine  and  of  different  colors. 

MONUMENT  GEYSER  BASIN. 

At  the  entrance  to  Gibbon  Canon,  on  leaving  this 
Basin,  or  Meadows,  a sign-board  is  observed  on  the  west 
bank  of  stream,  and  at  the  end  of  a foot-bridge  ; the  sign 
reads,  “ Trail  to  Monument  Geysers,  on  Mt.  Schurz.” 
It  is  one  mile  to  this  interesting  little  Basin.  Although 
the  foot-bridge  would  indicate  that  the  tourist  should 
walk  up  the  mountain,  yet  it  is  very  easily  ascended  on 
horseback.  The  author’s  wife,  together  with  one  other 
lady,  were  the  first  ladies  who  ever  visited  this  Basin. 
They  rode  their  horses  both  up  to  and  down  from  this 
elevated  Basin,  which  is  1,000  feet  higher  than  the  bed 
of  the  river.  Horses  can  be  forded  just  below  the  bridge 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


23 


by  taking  care  to  keep  them  from  stepping  into  the 
boiling  water,  which  is  plentiful  in  the  edge  of  the  river 
at  this  place.  Monument  Geyser  Basin  has  only  been 
open  to  tourists  for  two  seasons.  Here  are  found  monu- 
ments as  hard  as  granite,  smooth  and  perpendicular  ; all 
have  an  opening  in  the  top  ; some  are  extinct,  others  are 
sending  forth  steam,  but  none  are  throwing  water  at 
present. 

These  monuments  are  from  six  to  twelve  feet  in 
height.  The  most  interesting  thing,  however,  in  this 
Basin,  is  a dry  stream,  or  hot-air  escape  vent,  an  orifice 
in  the  rocks,  where  the  steam  is  so  dry  as  to  be  scarcely 
perceived,  escapes  with  a constant  noise,  so  loud  as  to 
make  it  impossible  to  hear  or  understand  the  loudest 
conversation  while  standing  near  it.  Upon  approaching 
it,  the  hands  are  almost  unconsciously  placed  over  the 
ears.  It  is  undoubtedly  the  noisiest  thing  in  the  Park. 

In  this  little  Basin  are  also  found  fine  specimens  of 
pure  sulphur  crystals,  boiling  pools  of  differently  col- 
ored water,  frying-pans,  etc.  No  tourist  should  omit 
visiting  this  wonderful  place.  The  view  one  gets  from 
this  summit  of  the  Gibbon  Meadows  and  river,  alone  re- 
wards for  the  trouble  of  the  ascent. 

GAME  IN  THE  PARK. 

In  the  northwest  of  this  Gibbon  Basin  is  considered 


24 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


a good  locality  for  elk;  indeed,  they  are  often  seen  upon 
these  Meadows  in  the  early  morning.  But  tourists 
must  not  expect  to  find  game  plentiful  in  any  locality  of 
the  Park.  To  find  it  at  all,  one  must  go  far  back  from  the 
roads  and  trails,  and  upon  the  highest  places,  where  it 
ranges  during  the  warm  months  to  eacape  the  flies.  It 
takes  experienced  hunters  to  get  game  now,  and  I am 
of  the  opinion  that  ere  many  years  almost  all  kinds  of 
game  will  cease  to  inhabit  the  Park. 

GIBBON  CANON. 

Leaving  this  beautiful  Basin,  one  of  the  most 
delightful  camps  in  all  Wonderland,  the  tourist  im- 
mediately enters  the  Gibbon  Canon.  There  are  Geysers, 
Laundry  Springs  and  boiling  pools  close  by  the  road- 
side, in  passing  through  the  Canon.  There  is  much 
fine  scenery  also.  The  Canon  wall  at  one  place  is 
2,000  feet  high  on  the  right  of  river.  After  passing  the 
hot  water  and  these  great  canon  walls,  the  Falls  are 
reached. 

GIBBON  FALLS. 

These  Falls  are  about  six  miles  from  the  entrance  to 
the  canon,  are  close  to  the  road-side  and  cannot  be 
missed.  The  water  falls  over  a beautiful  ledge  eighty 
feet.  There  is  a trail  to  foot  of  Falls,  as  well  as  one  to 
near  the  brink.  About  eleven  miles  farther  brings  the 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


25 


tourist  to  the  Lower  Geyser  Basin.  There  is  little  of 
interest  in  this  eleven  miles,  unless  it  be  a hill  at  Canon 
Creek. 

LOWER  GEYSER  BASIN. 

Upon  entering  this  Basin,  by  taking  the  right-hand 
road  and  crossing  the  two  forks  of  the  Fire  Hole,  or 
head-waters  of  the  Madison,  the  hotel  breaks  into  view. 
At  this  point  the  Virginia  road  enters  the  Park.  The 
hotel  is  kept  by  G.  W.  Marshall,  and  much  is  said  of 
his  hospitable  treatment  of  guests.  He  also  keeps  a 
supply  store,  which  fact  is  pleasing  intelligence  to  most 
tourists,  since  by  this  time  most  find  that  their  appe- 
tites have  been  undervalued  in  their  estimates  of 
amount  of  food  needed.  In  fact,  one  of  the  greatest 
wonders  the  tourist  meets  with  in  the  Park  is  his  own 
appetite. 

DIFFICULTY  WITH  THE  TOURIST. 

One  of  the  greatest  difficulties  in  the  management 
of  tourists  now  arises.  It  is,  that  in  his  eagerness  to 
get  to  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin,  where  are  the  greatest 
wonders,  he  neglects  to  visit  thoroughly  the  Lower 
Basin.  Says  he  “will  take  that  in”  when  he  comes 
back.  But  when  he  has  visited  the  Upper  Basin, 
he  does  not  care  for  anything  that'  may  be  found  in  the 
Lower  Basin.  This  is  the  almost  universal  experience 


26 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


of  all  who  go  to  Upper  Basin  before  visiting  the 
Lower. 

One  cannot  enjoy  the  sights  of  the  Upper  Basin 
more  for  not  having  seen  and  enjoyed  the  Lower  first 
Hence  I would  urge  all  who  read  this  book,  all  who 
desire  to  make  the  most  of  their  pleasure  trip — to 
thoroughly  “do”  the  Lower  Basin  first. 

We  will  suppose  you  are  at  the  hotel.  Go  from 
there  two  miles  south  through  Geyser  Meadows  to 
Queen’s  Laundry,  where  the  superintendent  has 
arranged  conveniences*for  bathing.  There  are  some 
geysers  and  many  other  objects  of  interest  near  the 
Laundry.  Fairy  Falls  Creek  enters  Fire  Hole  River  near 
here.  The  Falls  are  not  far  distant,  where  the  water 
falls,  or  makes  a leap  of  250  feet  perpendicularly. 

To  all  of  these  objects  of  interest,  the  verdant 
meadows,  skirted  by  romantic  groves  of  pines,  add  to 
the  beauty  and  general  interest  of  the  surroundings. 
Returning  to  the  hotel,  the  tourist  recrosses  the  two 
streams,  follows  the  wagon  road  towards  the  East, 
crosses  the  East  Fork  again  on  the  road  leading  to  the 
right,  from  where  the  wagon  road  crosses  the  formation 
of  the  lower  end  of  the  Basin — he  can  ride  or  drive  near 
to  all  objects  of  interest.  There  are  but  few  geysers  of  in- 
terest in  this  Basin.  The  large  pools,  easily  distinguished 
by  the  great  bodies  of  steam  rising  from  them,  are  the 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


27 


chief  attraction  in  this  Basin.  Approaching  near  to 
them  (on  foot),  one  can  look  down  through  their  beauti- 
fully tinted  but  wonderfully  clear  waters  to  immeasure- 
able  depths.  The  fantastically  shaped  and  coral  decked 
walls  are  objects  of  beauty  that  cause  the  beholder  to 
give  vent  to  involuntary  exclamations  of  wonder  and 
surprise. 

FOUNTAIN  GEYSER. 

Upon  the  eastern  summit  of  the  formation  is  found 
the  principal  Geyser  of  this  Basin,  The  Fountain, 
which  has  a crater  150  feet  in  circumference,  encas- 
ing a crater  twenty-five  feet  in  diameter.  From 
this  inner  crater  the  water  is  thrown  up  in  a vast 
column  sixty  feet  high,  falling  back  in  glistening  glob- 
ules— a natural  fountain  of  marvelous  beauty.  This 
Geyser  acts  about  every  six  hours,  and  the  length  of  time 
it  continues  in  action  is  more  than  one  hour.  As  the 
beholder  stands  near,  he  feels  and  hears  the  heavy 
under-ground  thuds  which  are  almost  instantly  followed 
by  the  highest  jets  or  columns.  When  this  Geyser  is 
not  acting,  the  crater  usually  is  full  of  the  most  trans- 
parent water;  and  into  its  clear  depths  one  may  gaze, 
beholding  a fairy-like  palace  adorned  with  more  brill- 
iant colors  than  any  structure  made  by  human  hands 
can  be.  In  the  beautiful  bowls,  or  “pot  holes,”  which 


28 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


surround  this  crater,  and  are  constantly  kept  filled  with 
this  clear  water,  may  be  found  many  names  of  tourists, 
written  with  lead-pencils,  some  of  which  have  been 
there  eight  years. 

MUD  OR  PAINT  POTS  IN  LOWER  BASIN. 

A few  rods  eastward  from  this  Geyser,  through  scat- 
tering trees,  are  the  most  remarkable  Paint  Pots  in  Fire 
Hole  Valley.  They  cover  an  area  of  seventy  by  forty  feet 
in  diameters.  The  surrounding  rim  or  crater  is  about  four 
feet  high,  and  may  be  walked  upon  with  perfect  safety. 
The  southern  end  is  almost  snow-white  boiling  mud, 
the  northern  is  a bright  pink.  The  latter,  being  some- 
what thicker  in  consistency,  has  formed  numerous  little 
mounds  or  craters,  with  orifices  from  which  mud  is 
thrown  at  small  intervals,  and  which  keep  up  a noise 
similar  to  but  greater  than  that  of  thickly  boiling 
“hasty  pudding.”  The  white  is  agitated  over  its  entire 
surface.  Bits  of  the  mixture  are  thrown  up  from  the 
surface,  which,  when  falling,  form  beautiful  little  circles 
or  rings,  which  keep  their  shape  until  changed  by 
another  disturbance  ; and  this  very  soon  follows. 

These  disturbances,  peculiar  shapes,  and  singular 
noise,  made  by  the  escaping  gases  and  steam,  are  most 
interesting  and  truly  wonderful. 

This  mud  is  an  impalpable,  silicious  clay. 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


29 


Some  distance  east  and  southeast  from  Paint  Pots, 
are  a few  geysers  and  boiling  pools,  but  not  often  visited 
by  tourists — not  possessing  features  differing  in  inter- 
est from  those  already  seen.  The  above  described  are 
the  chief  objects  of  interest  in  the  Lower  Geyser  Basin, 
and  should  be  thoroughly  viewed  by  all  tourists.  This 
will  not  require  more  than  one  day  at  most. 

From  Marshall’s  Hotel  to  the  Upper  Basin  is  eleven 
miles,  or  about  nine  from  where  the  road  crosses  the  for- 
mation of  Lower  Basin. 

MIDDLE  GEYSER  BASIN  OR  “DEVIL’S  HALF  ACRE.” 

This  interesting  locality  is  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  river  from  the  road,  and  about  half  way  between 
Upper  and  Lower  Basins.  It  is  clearly  visible — cannot 
be  missed.  A road  is  found  leading  across  the  river 
here.  This  locality  is  perhaps  better  known  as  DeviVs 
or  HelVs  Half  Acre , although  the  much  preferable, 
though  not  more  appropriate,  name  of  Middle  Gej^ser 
Basin  has  been  given  it  by  the  Superintendent  of  the 
Park. 

There  are  many  interesting  things  to  be  seen  here. 
The  group  includes  some  of  the  grandest  hot  springs  in 
the  world.  The  most  formidable  is  near  the  margin  of 
the  river.  Of  it  Prof.  Hayden  in  his  report  says 

“It  seems  to  have  broken  out  close  by  the  river,  and 


30 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


to  have  continually  enlarged  its  orifice  by  the  breaking 
down  of  its  sides.  It  evidently  commenced  on  the 
east  side,  and  the  continual  wear  of  the  under  side 
of  the  crust,  on  the  west  side,  has  caused  the  margin 
to  fall  in  until  the  aperture,  at  least  250  feet  in 
diameter,  has  been  formed,  with  walls  or  sides  twenty  to 
thirty  feet  high,  showing  the  laminae  of  deposition  per- 
fectly. The  water  is  intensely  agitated  all  the  time, 
boiling  like  a caldron,  from  which  a vast  column  of 
steam  is  ever  rising,  filling  the  orifice.  As  the  passing 
breeze  sweeps  it  away  for  a moment,  one  looks  down 
into  this  terrible,  seething  pit  with  terror.” 

MIDDLE  GEYSER  BASIN. 

This  pool  discharges  an  immense  amount  of  water 
constantly,  which  is  pouring  into  the  river,  coloring  the 
hank  most  exquisitely,  as  well  as  the  broad  surface  over 
which  it  runs  before  reaching  the  river  bank.  All 
artists  who  visit  the  Park  are  fascinated  by  the  oppor- 
tunities here  presented  for  a display  of  their  skill  in 
coloring. 

There  are  many  more  of  these  springs  or  pools 
here  of  the  next  in  size.  Strange  as  it  may  seem,  it 
must  be  said  that  the  present  season  it  acts  as  a Geyser, 
operating  about  once  in  twenty-four  hours,  and  with 
greater  violence  than  any  other  in  the  Park.  As  Gen- 
eral Sheridan,  this  season  (1881),  was  coming  by  this 
Basin  on  his  way  from  the  Upper  Basin,  this  Geyser 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


31 


gave  a fine  display,  an  account  of  which  is  the  follow- 
ing : — 

SHERIDAN  GEYSER. 

“ The  second  in  size  of  these  great  springs  has 
quite  recently  turned  itself  into  a spouting  Geyser,  and 
it  has  been  named  the  1 Sheridan,’  in  honor  of  the  gal- 
lant Lieutenant-General  Phil.  Sheridan.  Its  eruptions 
.are  yet  irregular.  On  Sunday  morning,  August  28, 
1881,  the  day  General  Sheridan  left  the  Upper  Basin 
with  his  party,  this  remarkable  Geyser  spouted  up  a 
solid  body  of  water  from  sixty  to  seventy-five  feet  in 
diameter,  to  a height  closely  estimated  at  300  feet.  The 
display  lasted  a number  of  minutes,  and  is  pronounced 
bv  those  who  witnessed  it  to  be  one  of  the  grandest  sights 
ever  beheld  in  Wonderland.” 

UPPER  GEYSER  BASIN. 

Leaving  this  interesting  Middle  Basin,  the  tourist 
passes  on  about  five  miles  farther  and  enters  the  Upper 
Basin,  which  Basin  contains  the  crowning  wonders  of 
Wonderland.  In  the  description  given  of  geysers  in  this 
Basin,  there  will  be  only  an  attempt  to  explain  their 
action  and  to  give  facts  concerning  them,  simply  and 
plainly,  so  as  to  aid  the  tourist ; and  no  attempt  at  de- 
scriptions of  their  grandeur. 

The  accompanying  chart  will  give  an  idea  of  the 
location  of  the  principal  Geysers.  As  the  Basin  is 


32 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


entered  at  the  north,  I have  headed  the  map  south, 
thinking  that  the  most  natural  way. 

DESCRIPTION  OF  GEYSERS. 

Old  Faithful,  so  aptly  named  by  the  first  exploring 
party  in  1870,  because  of  its  wonderful  regularity,  is 
situated  at  the  very  head  of  the  Geyser  Basin,  standing 
there  like  a faithful  sentinel,  true  to  his  regularity  day 
and  night,  winter  and  summer.  Every  hour  he  lifts 
himself  up,  as  it  were  looks  over  the  whole  Basin,  then 
quieting  down,  awaits  the  appointed  moment  when  this 
action  is  repeated. 

This  Geyser  acts  differently  from  every  other  one. 
While  it  is  said  to  act  every  hour,  it  is  more  accurately 
stated  by  saying  that  it  is  just  one  hour  from  the  time 
it  ceases  action  until  it  begins  again.  The  column  of 
water  is  held  up  steadily  and  majestically  about  160 
feet  for  about  five  minutes,  when  it  begins  to  weaken, 
and  in  less  than  two  minutes  is  all  quieted  down,  and 
gives  no  other  disturbance  than  the  plentiful  issue  of 
very  hot  steam,  until  time  for  the  next  eruption. 

The  formation  about  the  crater  of  this  Geyser  is 
one  of  the  greatest  wonders,  as  well  as  beauties,  of  the 
Park.  It  is  so  firm  as  to  be  unyielding  to  the  tread, 
and  yet  as  delicate  in  appearance  as  the  finest  coral 
formation. 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


33 


THE  CASTLE. 

The  Castle  has,  in  ages  past,  been  one  of  the  greatest, 
if  not  the  greatest,  Geyser  in  the  Basin ; it  is  the  noisiest 
one  now,  and  could  it  have  more  water,  would  not  be 
outdone  by  any  of  them.  It  is  throwing  up  jets  of  water 
to  heights  of  from  ten  to  twenty  or  thirty  feet  every  few 
minutes,  and  those  not  accustomed  to  its  actions  are  de- 
ceived into  the  belief  that  it  is  going  to  “ go  off.”  It  acts 
sometimes  once  a day,  but  oftener  does  it  act  every  second 
day.  : When  it  waits  two  days,  it  gives  a very  fine  dis- 
play, the  water  lasting  about  thirty  minutes,  and  is 
thrown  over  100  feet  high ; and  after  the  water  is  done, 
the  steam  escapes  in  immense  quantities,  and  with  a noise  j 
that  can  be  heard  miles  distant.  The  entire  mound  or  i 
formation  of  this  Geyser  is  forty  feet  high ; the  chimney 
or  crater  proper  is  twenty  feet  high.  The  formation 
about  this  Geyser  is  like  cauliflowers  or  spongiform 
corals. 

devil’s  well. 

The  beautiful  pool  about  three  rods  to  the  north  of 
this  Geyser  is  called  the  “ Devil’s  Well.”  It  is  an  object 
of  great  admiration.  Its  waters  have  that  unnatural 
clearness  characteristic  of  most  of  these  beautiful  boiling 
pools.  Tourists  often  cook  in  this  pool  by  setting  the 
camp-kettle  in  it  partly  filled  with  water  and  the  beans 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


35 


or  other  material  desired  to  be  boiled.  The  temperature 
of  some  of  these  springs  is  higher  than  can  be  obtained 
by  boiling  water  in  an  open  vessel  on  the  fire  in  same 
locality. 

bee-hive  geyser. 

The  Bee-hive  is,  in  respect  to  symmetry,  the  finest 
Geyser  in  Wonderland ; the  accompanying  illustration 
gives  an  accurate  representation  of  it.  The  cone  is  three 
feet  high,  the  orifice  two  feet  by  three  feet  in  diameter. 
By  accurate  triangular  measurement  it  is  found  to  throw 
its  boiling  column  219  feet  high.  The  eruption  lasts  about 
eight  minutes,  the  water  being  held  up  during  this  time 
as  shown  in  cut.  This  Geyser  acts  about  once  in  twenty- 
four  hours,  sometimes  oftener.  I have  seen  it  act  twice 
in  the  daylight  part  of  one  day.  A little  steam  orifice, 
about  twelve  feet  above  the  cone  of  the  Geyser,  almost 
without  exception,  gives  warning  from  fifteen  to  thirty 
minutes  before  the  eruption  of  the  Geyser.  The  writer 
never  knew  this  faithful  little  monitor  to  fail  before  the 
present  season,  when  he  witnessed  it  play  at  two  different 
times  for  thirty  minutes,  and  then  cease;  and  the  Geyser 
did  not  act.  Although  the  Geyser  may  fail  to  act  always 
when  the  vent  warns,  the  Geyser  never  acts  without  the 
vent  giving  warning;  so  it  is  generally  safe  to.  heed  the 
warning  given  by  this  little  vent,  and  to  call  your 


36 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


friends  and  fellow  sight-seers  to  assemble  near  the 
Bee-hive. 

THE  GIANTESS. 

The  Giantess  is  upon  the  summit  of  the  formation, 
about  100  yards  to  the  northeast  of  the  Bee-hive.  It  is  a 
large  oval  aperture,  with  scalloped  edges,  the  diameters 
of  which  are  twenty-five  and  eighteen  feet.  This  Gey- 
ser is  very  irregular,  acting  once  in  about  fourteen  days. 
The  crater  is  usually  full  and  boiling  gently ; gives  no 
warning  of  an  approaching  eruption.  The  beautiful 
walls  may  be  seen  to  a great  depth  through  the  wonder- 
fully transparent  water. 

When  this  Geyser  does  act,  the  eruption  at  inter- 
vals of  about  forty  minutes  lasts  for  twelve  to  sixteen 
hours ; so  that,  although  it  may  begin  in  the  night,  it 
may  be  seen  in  daylight.  When  it  begins  an  eruption, 
for  some  minutes  it  throws  250  feet  high,  but  after  this 
not  eighty  feet  high.  Its  action  is  very  much  like  that 
of  thej'Splendid,  in  viewing  which  one  finds  a very  good 
substitute^for  the  Giantess. 

LION,  LIONESS  AND  TWO  CUBS. 

The  group  of  four  active  craters  on  the  point  near 
the  river,  just  across  from  the  Cabin,  is  composed  of  four 
Geysers.  The  highest  crater  is  called  the  “Lion,”  and 
acts  independently  of  the  other  three.  The  Lioness  and 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


37 


Two  Cubs  aet  sometimes  in  unison;  and  when  they  do,  are 
a pretty  sight,  although  they  do  not  throw  water  to  a 
very  great  height.  There  is  no  regularity  as  to  the  time 
of  the  action  of  any  of  this  group.  The  next  Geyser  of 
great  importance  on  this  side  of  the  river  is  the 

GRAND  GEYSER. 

This  is  without  doubt  the  most  satisfactory  Geyser 
in  the  whole  Park,  and  all  seeing  it  in  action  will  pro- 
nounce it  most  aptly  named.  It  is  just  at  the  foot  of  a 
low,  rocky  bluff,  eastward  and  across  the  river  from  the 
Castle.  The  raised  and  usually  agitated  crater  is  not 
the  Geyser  orifice,  as  one  would  naturally  suppose,  ob- 
serving it  when  not  in  eruption.  The  Geyser  proper 
is  the  orifice  in  center  of  a shallow  basin,  or  pool,  just 
south  of  this  crater,  an  orifice  about  two  by  three  feet 
in  diameter. 

The  Geyser  acts  irregularly  about  twice  in  twenty- 
six  hours.  There  is  no  warning  of  any  certain  charac- 
ter before  an  eruption ; but  as  the  Geyser  seldom  acts 
for  a less  time  than  twenty  minutes,  tourists  can  get  to 
it  in  time  to  witness  its  best  action.  The  under-ground 
pulsations  can  be  heard  and  felt  to  a great  dis- 
tance. This  Geyser’s  action  is  entirely  different  from 
all  the  others.  The  first  action  is  very  violent,  a series 
of  charges  and  surges,  shooting  jets  to  great  heights  and 


38 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


at  different  angles.  This  action  lasts  eight  er  ten  min- 
utes ; then  it  all  settles  down  quietly  at  the  Geyser  orifice. 
The  water  covers  over,  no  steam  escapes,  and  for  a little 
more  than  a minute  it  is  calm  and  quiet,  when  suddenly 
it  is  heaved  as  by  a mighty  impulse,  and  the  column 
rises  perfectly  straight  up  to  a height  of  200  feet,  and  is 
held  there  for  several  moments ; then  is  followed  by  jet 
after  jet  for  some  minutes,  when,  as  suddenly  as  it  arose, 
it  quiets  down  again  just  as  before,  waiting  the  same 
length  of  time, when  the  third  pulsation  is  made,  similar 
to  the  second.  This  is  repeated  usually  until  seven  of 
these  pulsations,  or  periods  of  action  after  repose,  are 
completed — usually  seven;  but  the  writer  has  seen  but 
five,  and  again  nine  and  ten,  and  once  eleven  pulsations. 
When  it  is  confined  to  seven  pulsations,  the  time  occu- 
pied in  the  whole  action  is  twenty  minutes. 

Because  of  these  separate  pulsations — the  quieting 
and  beginning  again,  the  wonderful  power  displayed, 
and  the  dizzy  height  to  which  the  water  is  projected — 
this  is  regarded  by  most  tourists  as  the  favorite  Geyser. 
This  is  truly  the  “Grand  Geyser”  There  is  a powerful 
steam  vent  about  forty  feet  to  north  of  the  Geyser  orifice, 
which  operates  most  violently  during  the  whole  period 
of  the  Geyser’s  action ; but  all  the  steam  ceases,  and  the 
water  sinks  out  of  sight  in  both  craters  when  the  Geyser 
is  done. 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


39 


SAW-MILL  GEYSER. 

There  is  a Geyser  toward  the  Cabin  from  the  Grand, 
and  about  half  wa,y  between  Grand  and  the  river,  which 
is  called  the  “ Saw-Mill”  because  of  its  puffing  and  pecu- 
liar motion ; it  acts  about  half  the  time.  Standing  by  it, 
one  can  see  the  large  bubbles  of  steam  and  gas  ascending, 
which  explode  on  or  near  the  surface  of  the  water,  and 
cause  the  peculiar  noise  which  gives  rise  to  the  name,  as 
well  as  projecting  water  to  the  height  of  about  twenty 
feet. 

There  are  many  other  agitated  boiling  pools  and 
noisy  little  craters  in  this  vicinity,  from  some  of  which 
water  runs  constantly  to  the  river  in  little  rivulets,  the 
bottoms  of  which  are  most  delicately  and  beautifully 
colored.  Many  persons  write  their  names  with  lead-pen- 
cils in  these  beautiful  rivulets. 

SPLENDID  GEYSER. 

This  Geyser,  one  of  the  finest  in  the  Basin,  has  not 
acted  for  three  years,  until  the  present  season  (1881). 
It  is  located  almost  due  west  from  Giant,  back  upon  a 
small  hill.  Our  camp  was  near  it  this  summer  for  three 
weeks,  and  we  had  the  best  opportunity  to  observe  its 
actions.  It  is  (this  season)  next  to  Old  Faithful  in 
point  of  regularity,  operating  at  intervals  of  about  three 
hours.  Sometimes  not  more  than  one  and  one-half  hours 


40 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


intervened  between  its  eruptions.  It  gives  no  noticeable 
warning  of  eruptions,  beginning  suddenly  and  acting 
about  five  and  sometimes  ten  minutes.  There  is  a 
smaller  geyser  cast  of  it,  which  throws  an  oblique  stream; 
this  and  Splendid  often  act  together,  which  enhances 
the  beauty  of  the  spectacle.  I have  frequently  seen  the 
two  joined  by  a brilliant  rainbow.  The  Splendid  is  esti- 
mated to  throw  about  200  feet  high.  As  at  the  Grandf 
the  beholder,  unconscious  of  the  name,  exclaims : “ That 

is  grand.”  So  at  the  Splendid,  I have  frequently  heard 
the  expression,  “Well,  that  is  splendid.”  Let  us  hope 
that  this  Geyser  may  take  no  more  three-year  rests,  but 
rather  may  it  continue  to  vie  with  Old  Faithful  in  point 
of  frequency  and  regularity.  In  point  of  splendor  it  is 
already  ahead. 

COMET. 

Just  south  of  Giant  about  thirty  rods  is  a Geyser 
of  some  interest,  called  usually  the  “Comet,”  although  I 
am  at  a loss  to  know  what  suggested  the  name.  It.  has 
a large  and  beautiful  crater,  operates  about  four  times  a 
day,  discharges  a vast  quantity  of  water,  but  because  of 
the  Crater  being  so  large,  does  not  throw  to  a great 
height.  If  it  were  in  Central  Park,  New  York,  it 
would  be  looked  upon  and  visited  as  one  of  the  greatest 
of  wonders.  But  situated  where  it  is,  among  so  many 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


41 


of  its  fellows  who  are  so  vastly  superior,  it  scarcely  gets 
a passing  notice. 

THE  GROTTO. 

The  Grotto,  situated  near  the  Giant,  at  right  of  road 
before  reaching  the  Giant,  is  noted  only  for  the  grotto 
form  of  its  crater.  This  is  singular  and  beautiful.  Dur- 
ing the  action  of  this  Geyser,  water  is  not  thrown  to 
any  great  height,  but  it  is  churned  about  and  thrown  out 
at  the  holes  in  side,  in  such  a peculiar  style  as  to  make  it 
an  object  of  great  interest.  The  action  lasts  for  thirty 
minutes,  and  occurs  about  four  times  each  day. 

FAN  AND  RIVERSIDE. 

These  Geysers,  the  first  seen  upon  entering  the 
Basin,  throw  each  about  sixty  feet  high,  and  act  irregu- 
larly two  or  three  times  each  day. 

THE  GIANT. 

The  Giant,  the  king  of  all  geysers,  remains  to  be 
described.  Its  crater  wdll  at  once  be  recognized  by 
tourists  who  have  seen  pictures  of  it.  It  is  the  first 
real  Geyser  at  left  of  road  after  crossing  river,  on  way 
into  the  Basin,  and  about  one  mile  distant  from  Old 
Faithful,  at  opposite  end  of  Basin.  The  Giant  “ goes 
off”  (in  the  language  of  the  Geyer  Basins)  once  in  four 
days,  irregularly.  All  tourists  should  try  to  see  the 


42 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


Giant  in  action;  such  a treat  as  witnessing  this  Geyser, 
fully  compensates  for  the  waiting  necessary  to  see  it 

It  throws  a column  of  water  seven  feet  in  diameter 
nearly  200  feet  high.  Some  of  the  first  pulsations  are 
often  much  higher  than  this,  and  part  of  the  time 
lower.  The  grandeur  consists  in  the  power  displayed, 
the  quantity  of  water  thrown,  and  the  length  of  time 
it  acts.  I have  never  known  it  to  act  a less  time  than 
one  hour  and  thirty  minutes,  and  it  often  goes  over  two 
hours;  and  during  this  time  there  is  no  cessation  of  the 
action,  but  the  column  is  kept  up  constantly  to  a height  of 
not  less  than  100  feet.  The  quantity  of  water  dis- 
charged increases  the  volume  of  the  river  about  one- 
half,  and  the  river  is  a rapid  stream  about  twenty-five 
yards  wide.  The  quantity  of  steam  discharged  is  im- 
mense, and  a slight  breeze  is  necessary  to  give  the  finest 
appearance  to  the  Geyser.  The  constant,  deep-toned 
roar,  heard  in  connection  with  this  Geyser’s  action,  is 
one  of  the  most  impressive  features. 

There  are  several  vents  for  this  Geyser  near  to  it, 
which  keep  boiling  and  throwing  water  and  emitting  great 
quantities  of  steam  constantly  while  the  Geyser  is  not  in 
action,  but  as  soon  as  the  Geyser  begins  to  act,  they  cease* 
Some  of  these  are  really  geysers  in  themselves.  The  one 
throwing  the  most  water  is  called  the  “ Cat-fish.” 

Those  described  are  the  principal  Geysers;  there 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


43 


being  really  only  nine  great  Geysers  in  this  Basin, 
which  may  he  arranged  in  a table  as  given  in  connec- 
tion with  this.  But  tourists  must  bear  in  mind  that 
what  is  true  of  these  Geysers,  this  season,  may  not  be 
absolutely  true  of  them  next  season,  since  all  of  them, 
except  Old  Faithful,  vary  somewhat  in  their  frequency 
and  times  of  action;  but  in  the  main,  the  table  will  be 
found  to  be  correct : — 


Time 

of 

Action. 

How  High. 

How  Frequent, 

1.  Old  Faithful 

4 min. 

160  feet. 

Every  65  minutes. 

2.  Bee-hive  

8 min. 

219  “ 

About  once  in  24  hours 

3.  Giantess 

12  hrs. 

250  “ 

“ “ 14  days 

4.  Castle 

30  min. 

150  “ 

“ “ 2 days 

5.  Grand 

20  min. 

200  “ 

“ “ 13  hours 

6.  Splendid 

4 to  10  min. 

200  “ 

“ “ 3 hours 

7.  Giant 1 

1 hr.  40  m. 

200  “ 

“ “ 4 days 

8.  Riverside j 

15  min. 

60  “ 

“ 3 times  each  day 

9.  Fan 1 

15  min. 

60  “ 

“ 3 times  each  day 

There  are  many  objects  of  interest  in  this  Basin,  aside 
from  the  Geysers  ; but  tourists  usually  stay  too  little 
time  here,  and  pass  that  all  in  an  excited  state,  rushing 
from  one  Geyser  to  another,  as  alarm  is  given  of  their 
real  or  apparent  eruptions.  No  one  should  think  of 
staying  less  time  in  this  Basin  than  four  days.  This  will 
give  an  opportunity  to  see  the  Giant  and  most  of  the 
others  more  than  once.  Then  there  are  many  things  of 
interest,  outride  of  the  immediate  geyser  region,  which 
should  be  visited,  of  which  the  following  are  a few  * 


44 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


Falls  in  Fire  Hole  River,  about  one  and  a half  miles 
above  Old  Faithful,  beside  the  trail  leading  to  Yellow- 
stone Lake;  Black  Sand  Geyser,  about  one-half  mile 
westward  from  Giant.  This  is  not  an  active  Geyser,  but 
a beautiful  pool ; water  198°  temperature.  It  has  a crater 
about  ten  feet  high,  of  black  sand,  and  the  formation 
west  of  it  affords  large  quantities  of  the  most  beautiful 
specimens  found  in  the  Park.  In  this  locality  are  found 
also  the  Demon’s  Cave,  Fairies’  Well  and  Soda  Geyser. 
Before  you  enter  the  Geyser  Basin,  about  one-half  mile 
below  the  Fan  Geyser,  and  just  before  descending  a hill 
(traveling  south),  the  road  passes  over  a geyser  forma- 
tion, where  there  is  hot  water  running  across  the  road, 
in  beautifully  colored  little  rivulets;  just  above  the  road 
a few  rods  is  observed  a large  pool,  from  which  a vast 
column  of  steam  is  rising.  The  formation  about  this 
pool  is,  I think,  the  finest  seen  anywhere  in  the  Park. 
All  should  stop  here,  alight  from  horses,  and  walk  around 
this  pool.  The  views  obtained  from  different  positions 
about  it  are  certainly  fine.  This  pool  sometimes  acts  as 
a geyser,  throwing  out  a large  quantity  of  water.  But 
I have  said  nothing  of  a general  view  of  this  Geyser  Basin. 

GENERAL  VIEW  OF  BASIN. 

Obtaining  an  elevated  position  at  either  end  of  the 
Basin,  on  a clear,  calm  morning,  one  can  behold  innu- 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


45 


merable  columns  of  steam  ascending  perpendicularly. 
Some  are  great  and  some  are  small.  From  a distance 
one  is  reminded  of  a great  manufacturing  city,  except 
that  instead  of  the  vast  columns  of  dirty  smoke,  there 
are  here  the  white,  delicate  clouds  of  steam. 

SMOKE  IN  PARK. 

There  are  many  names  in  the  Park  that  suggest 
the  idea  of  smoke.  But  nowhere  is  any  smoke  found 
except  that  of  camp-fires  ; or  it  may  be  a burning  forest 
occasionally  is  seen,  the  result  of  carelessness  in  extin- 
guishing camp-fires — a direct  violation  of  one  of  the 
regulations  of  the  Park. 

FORESTS  OF  PARK. 

This  leads  us  to  mention  the  forests  of  the  Park. 
The  great  forests  of  beautiful  pines  are  one  of  the  chief 
attractions  of  the  Park.  The  tourist  rides  miles  and 
miles  through  dense  forests,  where  the  beholding  of  the 
tall,  wonderfully  straight  and  symmetrical  pine  is  a 
constant  pleasure  and  delight.  Every  variety  of  pine 
is  found,  sometimes  mingled  together,  sometimes  in 
groves  by  themselves.  But  in  the  midst  of  these  forests, 
beautiful  green  parks  are  frequently  found.  So  much  so 
is  this  the  case,  that  an  eminent  U.  S.  Senator,  whom  I 
met  in  the  Park  this  season,  said : — 

“I  think  it  is  a mistake  to  call  this  a ‘National 


46 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


Park.’  It  is  a vast  Wonderland , composed  of  a thousand 
beautiful  parks,  aside  from  the  great  wonders.” 

FROM  UPPER  GEYSER  BASIN  TO  LAKE. 

Having  visited  the  Upper  Basin,  the  next  point  of 
interest  in  the  tour  is  the  Lake.  There  are  two  ways  of 
reaching  the  Lake.  One  by  trail,  leaving  Upper  Basin 
near  Old  Faithful ; the  other  is  by  wagon  road,  via  Lower 
Basin  and  Mud  Geysers.  Since  many  visit  the  Park  with- 
out wagons,  and  with  pack  animals,  which  will  always 
be  the  most  convenient,  less  annoying  and  quickest  way, 
because  of  the  many  hills,  which,  however  well  graded, 
will  always  be  barriers  to  the  wheeled  vehicle,  we  will 
first  describe  the  trail  road  to  Lake. 

SHOSHONE  TRAIL  AND  LAKE. 

This  trail  is  somewhat  difficult  because  of  hills  and 
swamps.  But  the  Superintendent  of  Park  so  far  im- 
proved it  this  summer  as  to  render  it  quite  passable. 
The  objects  of  interest  on  this  trail  are,  first,  the  Fire 
Hole  River  Falls,  about  one  and  a half  miles  above  Old 
Faithful.  Next 

SHOSHONE  LAKE 

ten  miles  from  Upper  Basin.  This  Lake  is  on  the  Pa- 
cific side  of  the  divide ; its  outlet  runs  into  Snake  River. 
This  Lake  has  an  area  of  about  100  square  miles.  Its 
surface  • is  about  200  feet  lower  than  that  of  Yellow- 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


47 


stone  Lake,  not  more  than  six  miles  distant  from  its 
nearest  point.  Beautiful  camping  grounds  are  found 
here.  No  fish  in  this  Lake. 

HOT  SPRINGS  CAMP  ON  YELLOWSTONE  LAKE 

Ten  miles  farther  brings  the  tourist  to  the  great  Yel- 
lowstone Lake.  At  this  point  on  Lake,  are  many  hot 
springs,  and  it  is  known  by  the  term,  uHot  Springs  Camp” 
There  are  in  this  collection  very  large  hot  springs,  from 
which  flow  great  quantities  of  the  hottest  water,  coating 
most  beautifully  the  channels  through  which  the  waters 
run ; great  boiling  pools,  one  of  which  is  very  large  and 
remarkably  beautiful.  It  has  been  sounded  to  the  depth 
of  B50  feet ; and  through  its  transparent  waters,  it  would 
seem  that  one  could  see  to  almost  this  depth.  Its  un- 
even walls,  coral-like  in  formation  and  singular  in  shape, 
tinted  by  the  water’s  color,  are  surely  good  representa- 
tions of  fairy  palaces.  Its  edge  should  be  approached  with 
great  care,  since  the  thin  rim  formed  from  the  water’s 
ingredients  projects  over  the  vast  depth.  There  is  here 
& collection  of  Paint  Pots,  even  more  beautiful  than 
those  described  in  the  Lower  Geyser  Basin,  and  more 
•extensive. 

YELLOWSTONE  LAKE. 

The  Lake  is  very  beautiful  at  this  point.  The  be- 
holder can  see  to  Steamboat  Springs,  a distance  of  about 


48 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


forty  miles;  these  Springs  being  on  the  edge  of  the  Lake 
at  northeast  extremity. 

Boiling  water  may  be  noticed  ascending  through 
the  clear  water  of  the  Lake  at  many  points  near  this 
camp  (Hot  Springs  Camp).  The  author  bathed  in  the 
Lake,  where,  for  a depth  of  eighteen  inches,  the  water 
indicated  on  Fahrenheit  mercury  110°  ; and  below  that 
immediately  80°.  The  water  could  only  be  made  com- 
fortably cool  by  stirring  it ; even  then  it  was  a very  warm 
bath , when  the  Lake  a few  rods  south  along  shore,  juist 
above  Warm  Springs  region,  indicated  45°.  A singular- 
ity of  the  geyser  and  hot  springs  water  is  that  it  floats 
upon  ordinary  water,  just  as  alcohol  does. 

DRINKING  GEYSER  WATER. 

Geyser  or  hot  springs  water  is  usually  good  to  drink 
when  cold  ; not  always  pleasant  to  the  taste,  but  in  no 
way  injurious  to  the  health. 

FISH  IN  YELLOWSTONE  LAKE. 

There  are  plenty  of  fish  in  the  Lake,  and  they  can 
be  easily  hooked  here  with  grasshoppers  for  bait ; and 
there  are  several  places  where  the  fisherman  can  catch, 
and’cook  the  fish  in  the  boiling  pools,  without  either 
removing  it  from  hook  or  changing  his  position.  The 
writer  has  tried  the  experiment  ; caught  a fish  and 
dropped  it  while  on  line  into  a small  geyser  in  edge  of 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


49 


Lake,  just  a little  south  of  what  is  known  as  the 
“ boiling  pool  ” in  Lake.  The  temperature,  on  account 
of  the  amount  of  escaping  steam,  was  220°.  The 
fish  was  actually  cooked,  so  that  the  meat  fell  off  the 
bones  in  less  than  two  minutes.  But  these  fish  are  not 
good  to  eat ; of  them  Col.  Norris,  in  his  last  report, 
says  : — 

“No  peculiarity  of  these  regions  is  better  estab- 
lished than  that  of  the  presence  of  long,  slender  white 
worms  in  the  intestines  and  flesh  of  the  countless  large 
and  beautiful  trout  of  the  Yellowstone  Lake,  named  by 
Prof.  Cope  Salmo  pleuriticus.  All  the  trout  of  its  cold- 
water  tributaries  belowT  contain  them,  but  not  those 
above  the  first  rapids;  also  the  main  Yellowstone 
above,  but  not  below  its  first  Falls,  as  I have  established 
by  frequent  examination  of  specimens  of  this  fish. 
This  clearly  indicates  that  the  cause  of  the  presence  of 
these  worms  exists  in  the  Lake  ; further  than  this, 
nothing  has  been  established  with  regard  to  this  phe- 
nomenon.” 

Many  ducks,  geese,  cranes  and  pelicans  are  found 
on  the  Lake  and  its  branches. 

Leaving  this  camp,  the  trail  for  a time  is  very  close 
to  the  Lake  ; but  most  of  the  time  the  tourist  is  hidden 
in  dense  forest,  until  within  about  two  miles  of  the  Nat- 
ural Bridge,  occasionally  however  getting  fine  glimpses 
of  the  Lake.  From  camp  at  Boiling  Pool  to  Natural 
Bridge  is  twenty  miles. 

—4 


50 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


NATURAL  BRIDGE. 

This  Wonder  has  been  added  to  the  list  within  the 
last  year.  Many  tourists  have  passed  within  one  mile 
of  it,  ignorant  of  its  existence.  Now  the  trail  passes  to 
it,  and  over  it,  for  those  who  care  to  try  it.  The  Bridge 
is  about  thirty  feet  long,  and  about  five  feet  wide — a 
kind  of  natural  railing  on  the  lower  side.  From  Bridge 
to  bottom  of  ravine,  at  lower  side,  I should  judge  to  be 
about  eighty  feet ; not  so  deep  at  upper  side.  There  is  a 
cascade  water-fall  under  the  Bridge.  From  Col.  Norris’ 
report  I take  the  following  description  of  it : — 

“ What  is  now  the  Bridge  was  once  the  brink 
of  a cataract  nearly  100  feet  high,  over  a ledge  of 
peculiarly  hard,  durable,  variegated  trachyte,  upheaved 
to  the  vertical  across  the  stream.  Directly  across 
this  ledge  countless  ages  of  erosion  have  formed, 
first,  a shallow,  trough-like  channel;  then,  or  simul- 
taneously with  this  channel,  a vertical  orifice  several 
feet  long  by  one  foot  wide,  between  the  strata,  some 
two  feet  from  the  brink.  There  is  a similar  orifice 
eight  or  ten  feet  farther  up  stream,  so  large  and  deep 
as  to  undermine  the  intervening  brink  of  the  falls, 
where  the  impetuous  water  and  rocky  debris , by  first  cut- 
ting a circular  channel  and  ultimately  greatly  deepen- 
ing it,  have  eroded  one  of  the  finest  archways  1 have 
ever  seen,  which  has  about  ten  feet  of  stone  support  for 
a carriage-way  above,  and  thirty  feet  of  water-way 
beneath.  The  chasm  is  fully  spanned  by  the  Bridge, 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


51 


which  by  measurement  I found  to  be  twenty-nine  feet 
long,  and,  including  the  above  mentioned  vertical  ori- 
fice, ten  feet  high  above  the  top  of  the  arch,  and  forty- 
one  feet  to  the  bed-rock  of  the  chasm,  which  at  this 
point  changes  into  a water-fall/’ 

Leaving  the  Natural  Bridge,  the  tourist  follows  on 
down  the  Lake  and  river  to  the  Mud  Geysers , which  point 
is  six  miles  below  the  Lake  and  fourteen  from  the  Nat- 
ural Bridge,  making  in  all  a distance  of  fifty-four  miles 
by  this  route  from  Upper  Geyser  Basin  to  Mud  Geysers. 

FROM  LOWER  BASIN  TO  MUD  GEYSERS  AND  LAKE. 

From  Lower  Basin,  the  wagon  road  and  trail  pass 
up  the  east  fork  of  Fire  Hole  River,  and  by  Mary's  Lake 
to  Mud  Geysers,  twenty  miles;  from  Mud  Geysers  to 
Lake  six  miles,  being  by  this  route  thirty  miles  from 
Upper  Basin  to  Mud  Geysers,  and  thirty-six  to  the  Lake. 
This  is  the  route  most  tourists  take,  since  it  is  shorter 
and  a much  better  road.  But  those  who  desire  to  see 
the  Natural  Bridge  and  Boiling  Pool  in  Lake,  had  better 
travel  the  Shoshone  Trail. 

MUD  GEYSERS. 

The  Mud  Geyser,  formerly  the  most  interesting 
feature  of  this  collection  of  springs,  pools,  etc.,  has  been 
dead  for  four  years.  However,  there  are  two  very  inter- 
esting things  in  this  locality  yet.  The  first  is  the  Mud 
Volcano,  just  against  and  on  the  side  of  the  hill,  west 


52 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


of  the  others  of  this  group.  It  will  be  easily  found 
from  the  large  quantity  of  steam  issuing  from  it,  and 
by  the  noise  it  makes.  As  you  stand  upon  the  brink  of 
the  crater  and  look  down  into  it,  you  can  get  glimpses 
of  the  boiling,  charging  mud,  as  the  steam  clears  away 
occasionally.  It  belches  forth  from  under  the  mountain 
in  a horizontal  line,  strikes  the  side  of  the  crater  at  the 
bottom,  and  runs  right  back  in  again.  It  is  in  many 
respects  a hideous  sight  and  sound,  yet  it  seems  to 
fascinate  the  beholder;  he  feels  like  staying  there  until 
he  more  thoroughly  understands  it.  There  is  another, 
somewhat  singular  in  its  action,  farther  to  the  north, 
about  twenty  rods  distant.  But  this  one  throws  clear 
water ; but  it  only  throws  it  to  its  mouth,  and  very 
little  runs  away.  The  water  is  200°  Fahrenheit.  The 
stone  about  and  above  the  mouth  — for  it  is  a cave 
or  cavern  in  the  hill-side — is  made  perfectly  green 
by  the  steam  or  ingredients  of  the  water.  These 
two  objects  are  the  only  wonders  of  peculiar  inter- 
est in  this  locality.  No  tourist  should  pass  with- 
out closely  inspecting  them.  The  first  of  these  is  called 
the  “Mud  Volcano;”  the  latter  the  “Belcher”  because  of 
its  peculiar  action  and  noise. 

This  point  on  the  river  is  called  the  “Nez-Perce  Ford,” 
because  of  the  fact  that  these  Indians  crossed  the  river 
here  when  pursued  by  Gen.  Howard  in  the  memorable 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


53 


campaign  of  1877.  Here  may  be  found  mounds  or  ridges 
of  dirt  thrown  up  by  the  Indians,  to  be  used  as  breast- 
works in  case  of  the  anticipated  attack  of  Howard’s 
forces. 

SULPHUR  MOUNTAIN. 

About  four  miles  farther  towards  the  Falls  brings 
the  tourist  to  Sulphur  Mountain.  This  is  certainly  a 
wonderful  place.  It  stands  out  in  the  open  prairie.  A 
small  grove  almost  surrounds  it.  No  other  mountains 
or  trees  near  it.  It  is  not  a very  high  Mountain.  Its 
entire  surface  has  the  appearance  of  weather-worn  or 
colored  sulphur,  and  all  over  it  are  little  steam  vents, 
from  which  issue  little  jets  of  steam — clearly  discerni- 
ble on  a clear,  cool  morning  or  in  frosty  weather,  giving 
a remarkable  appearance  to  the  Mountain.  These  vents 
are  found  all  about  the  base  of  the  Mountain  also,  and 
the  tourist  must  exercise  care  in  walking  about,  lest  he 
break  through  and  be  scalded  by  the  hot  steam.  Break- 
ing up  the  surface  around  one  of  these  vents,  the  finest 
crystals  of  sulphur  are  found,  too  delicate,  however,  to 
be  transported  as  specimens. 

At  the  southern  base  of  this  Mountain  is  found  a 
wonderful  boiling  spring  ; of  it  Mr.  Langford  says  : — 

“ The  most  conspicuous  of  the  cluster  is  a sulphur 
spring  twelve  by  twenty  feet  in  diameter,  encircled  by 
a beautiful^  scalloped  sedimentary  border,  in  which 


FISHING  IN  THE  PARK 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


55 


the  water  is  thrown  to  a height  of  from  three  to  seven 
feet.  The  regular  formation  of  this  border,  and  the  per- 
fect shading  of  the  scallops  forming  it,  are  among  the 
most  delicate  and  wonderful  freaks  of  nature’s  handi- 
work. They  look  like  an  elaborate  work  of  art  The 
gentle  slope  around  it,  for  a distance  of  BOO  feet,  is  cov- 
ered to  considerable  depth  with  a mixture  of  sulphur 
and  brown  lava.” 

Almost  east  of  this  spring,  or  rather  south  of  east, 
on  south  side  of  trail,  just  through  edge  of  timber,  may 
be  found  some  very  interesting  Mud  Pots.  Entering 
this  Basin  as  indicated,  the  most  interesting  one  is  met 
with ; the  mud  is  of  a lavender  color,  thick  enough  to 
take  most  interesting  shapes,  as  the  steam  and  gases 
are  permitted  to  escape  through  it.  This  Mud  Pot  is 
not  seen  by  most  tourists.  It  was  not  until  * my-  third 
tour  of  the  Park  that  I found  it.  There  is  a boiling, 
muddy  pool  nearly  straight  south  of  the  spring  above 
described,  which  must  not  be  taken  for  the  Mud  Pots. 

SULPHUR  MOUNTAIN  TO  FALLS. 

The  water  of  many  of  the  springs  in  this  locality  is 
strangely  impregnated  with  alum.  Leaving  Sulphur 
Mountain,  the  tourist  passes  on  towards  the  Falls — 
the  next  object  of  interest.  The  distance  from 
Sulphur  Mountain  to  Falls  is  called  six  miles,  but 
the  tourist  will  think  them  long  ones.  Of  the  river 


56 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


and  country  between  these  points,  Mr.  James  Richard- 
son says: — 

“ Half  a mile  above  the  Upper  Fall,  the  Yellowstone 
gives  no  intimation  of  its  approaching  career  of  wildness 
and  grandeur.  It  rolls  peacefully  between  low,  verdant 
banks,  and  over  pebbly  reaches  or  spaces  of  quicksand, 
with  beautiful  curves  and  majestic  motion.  Its  waters 
are  clear  and  cold,  and  of  the  emerald  hue  characteristic 
of  Niagara.  Great  numbers  of  small  springs,  fed  by  the 
slowly  melting  snows  of  the  mountains,  flow  from  the 
densely  wooded  foot-hills,  irrigating  the  ‘bottoms’  and 
sustaining  a growth  of  grass  and  flowers  that  clothe  the 
lowlands  with  freshness  and  vividness  of  color.  Every- 
thing terrific,  diabolic,  volcanic,  would  seem  to  have  been 
left  behind.  The  first  hint  to  the  contrary  is  given  by  a 
pretty  little  rivulet,  a yard  wide  and  a few  inches  deep, 
clear  as  crystal,  winding  along  through  the  rank  grass 
to  join  the  Yellowstone.  It  looks  like  any  clear- watered 
mountain  stream,  but  a single  taste  shows  that  it  has  a 
different  origin.  It  is  strongly  charged  with  alum, 
hence  its  name,  Alum  Creek” 

One-half  mile  above  the  Upper  Fall,  the  river 
changes  into  a series  of  beautiful  rushing  rapids,  and  as 
the  trail  passes  close  by  the  river  brink,  the  tourist  has 
the  finest  opportunity  for  viewing  these. 

UPPER  FALLS  OF  YELLOWSTONE. 

On  the  brink  of  this  Fall,  the  river  is  confined  to  a 
width  of  little  more  than  100  feet  between  low,  rocky 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


57 


walls.  Of  this  Fall  Prof.  Hayden,  in  Geological  Report, 
says : — 

“Above  the  Upper  Falls,  the  Yellowstone  flows 
through  a grassy,  meadow-like  valley,  with  a calm, 
steady  current,  giving  no  warning,  until  very  near  the 
Falls,  that  it  is  about  to  rush  over  a precipice  140  feet 
high,  and  then,  within  a quarter  of  a mile,  again  to  leap 
down  a distance  of  350  feet. 

“From  any  point  of  view  the  Upper  Falls  are 
extremely  picturesque  and  striking.  The  entire  body 
of  water  seems  to  be,  as  it  were,  hurled  off  the  precipice 
with  the  force  which  it  has  accumulated  in  the  rapids 
above,  so  that  the  mass  is  detached  into  the  most  beauti- 
ful snow-white,  bead-like  drops ; and  as  it  strikes  the 
rocky  basin  below,  it  shoots  through  the  water  with  a 
sort  of  ricochet  for  the  distance  of  200  feet.” 

Of  the  river  between  the  Falls  the  Superintendent 
of  Park,  Colonel  Norris,  has  written: — 

“ Flow  on,  thou  lovely  river, 

Go  smiling  on  thy  way, 

And  gathered  floods  deliver 
In  thunder,  mist,  and  spray, 

Amid  the  arching  rainbows, 

High  o’er  the  triple  falls, 

Where  quivering,  mystic  halos 
Bright  tint  the  Canon  walls. 

LOWER  FALLS. 

“ After  the  waters  roll  over  the  upper  descent,  they 
flow  with  great  rapidity  over  the  flat,  rocky  bottom, 
which  spreads  out  to  nearly  double  its  width  above  the 


58 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


Falls,  when  the  channel  again  contracts,  and  the  waters 
seem,  as  it  were,  to  gather  themselves  into  one  compact 
mass,  and  plunge  over  the  descent  of  350  feet,  in 
detached  drops  of  foam  as  white  as  snow.  Some  of  the 
large  globules  of  water  shoot  down  like  the  contents  of 
an  exploded  rocket.  The  entire  mass  of  the  water  falls 
into  a circular  basin,  which  has  been  worn  into  the 
hard  rock,  so  that  the  rebound  is  one  of  the  grand 
features  of  the  scene.” 

The  first  impression,  I think,  of  most  tourists,  on 
first  beholding  this  Fall,  is  that  it  is  not  as  high  as  they 
expected ; but  this  feeling  soon  gives  way  to  that  of 
grandeur  and  amazement.  The  water  is  confined  into 
such  a narrow  space  upon  the  brink  of  the  Fall  (less  than 
200  feet)  that  it  at  first  looks  smaller  than  expected. 
But  the  vast  quantity  of  water,  and  the  beautiful  shape 
it  takes  in  falling,  soon  almost  entrance  the  beholder. 
Then,  too,  the  fact  that  from  every  good  point  of  view 
the  beholder  is  so  far  above  the  brink  of  the  Fall,  makes 
it  seem  not  so  high.  But  as  one  begins  to  comprehend 
the  wonderful  depth  of  the  canon  beneath  him,  the  Falls 
soon  seem  to  loom  up  until  he  is  quite  willing  to  pro- 
nounce them  350  feet.  This  is  the  measurement  given 
in  both  Prof.  Hayden’s  and  Captain  Jones’  official 
reports ; the  latter,  I believe,  having  actually  measured 
it  with  a line.  The  height  of  367  feet  was  once  obtained 
by  barometrical  measurement. 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


59 


There  is  a trail  leading  to  brink  of  Falls.  But  the 
best  points  from  which  to  view  the  Falls  are  along  the 
canon  at  different  places,  as  far  down  as  Point  Lookout. 
Point  Lookout  is  about  one  mile  below  the  Falls. 

THE  GRAND  CANON. 

This  is  the  part  of  the  Park  that  tongue  or  pen 
can  give  no  adequate  idea  of.  The  author  had  read 
•many — what  he  thought — fine  descriptions  of  it  before 
seeing  it ; but  when  he  beheld  it,  he  could  not  help  ex- 
claiming, “ The  half  was  never  told.”  But  since  some 
explanation  of  it  may  be  expected  in  a book  of  this  kind, 
and  since  all  who  read  this  book  may  not  be  able  to 
visit  the  Park  and  see  for  themselves,  I will  give  some 
brief  descriptions,  from  the  pens  of  those  much  more 
gifted  in  descriptive  powers  than  myself.  Prof.  Hay- 
den says : — 

“ But  no  language  can  do  justice  to  the  won- 
derful grandeur  and  beauty  of  the  Canon  below  the 
Lower  Falls;  the  very  nearly  vertical  walls,  slightly 
sloping  down  to  the  water’s  edge  on  either  side,  so  that 
from  the  summit  the  river  appears  like  a thread  of 
silver  foaming  over  its  rocky  bottom ; the  variegated 
colors  of  the^sides — yellow,  red,  brown,  white — all  inter- 
mixed and  shading  into  each  other  ; the  gothic  columns 
of  every  form,  standing  out  from  the  sides  of  the  walls 
with  greater  variety  and  more  striking  colors  than  ever 


60 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


adorned  a work  of  human  art.  The  margins  of  the 
Canon  on  either  side  are  beautifully  fringed  with  pines. 
In  some  places  the  walls  of  the  Canon  are  composed  of 
massive  basalt,  so  separated  by  the  jointage  as  to  look 
like  irregular  mason-work  going  to  decay.  Here  and 
there  a depression  in  the  surface  of  the  basalt  has  been 
subsequently  filled  up  by  the  more  modern  deposit,  and 
the  horizontal  strata  of  sandstone  can  be  seen.  The  de- 
composition and  the  colors  of  the  rocks  must  have  been 
due  largely  to  hot  water  from  the  springs,  which  has 
percolated  all  through,  giving  to  them  the  present  va- 
riegated and  unique  appearance-  Standing  near  the 
margin  of  the  Lower  Falls,  and  looking  down  the  Canon 
which  looks  like  an  immense  chasm  or  clift  in  the  basalt, 
with  its  sides  1200  to  1500  feet  high,  and  decorated  with 
the  most  brilliant  colors  that  the  human  eye  ever  saw, 
with  the  rocks  weathered  into  an  almost  unlimited  va- 
riety of  forms,  with  here  and  there  a pine  sending  its 
roots  into  the  clefts  on  the  sides,  as  if  struggling  with  a 
sort  of  uncertain  success  to  maintain  an  existence — the 
whole  presents  a picture  that  would  be  difficult  to  sur- 
pass in  nature.  Mr.  Thomas  Moran,  a celebrated  artist, 
and  noted  for  his  skill  as  a colorist,  exclaimed  with  a 
kind  of  regretful  enthusiasm,  that  these  beautiful  tints 
were  beyond  the  reach  of  human  art.  It  is  not  the 
depth  alone  that  gives  such  an  impression  of  grandeur 
to  the  mind,  but  it  is  also  the  picturesque  forms  and 
coloring.” 

The  above  I have  quoted  as  fully  because  it  is 
authentic,  being  taken  from  Prof.  Hayden’s  official  re- 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


61 


port  of  his  geological  survey  of  this  region.  Mr.  Rich- 
ardson says : — 

“ It  has  no  parallel  in  the  world.  Through  the 
eye  alone,  can  any  just  idea  be  gained  of  its  strange, 
awful,  fascinating,  unearthly  blending  of  the  majestic 
and  the  beautiful ; and  even  in  its  visible  presence  the 
mind  fails  to  comprehend  the  weird  and  unfamiliar,  al- 
most incredible  scenes  it  reveals.” 

The  author  had  the  pleasure  of  sitting  beside  and 
conversing  with  the  famous  American  artist,  Bierstadt, 
as  he  was  seated  on  a point  in  the  Grand  Canon  about 
400  feet  below  the  surface — engaged  in  reproducing  in 
oil,  upon  canvas,  the  Grand  Canon  and  Falls.  It  was 
indeed  marvelous  to  see  with  what  rapidity  and  accu- 
racy these  scenes  were  by  him  transferred  to  the  canvas. 
He  then  remarked  to  me  that  a different  picture  could 
be  taken  at  almost  every  hour  in  the  day,  since  a differ- 
ence in  the  direction  of  the  sun’s  rays  made  a difference 
in  the  appearance  of  the  colors  in  the  Canon.  Many 
tourists  are  ambitious  to  make  the  descent  to  the  water’s 
edge  in  this  Canon.  There  is  an  unsafe  foot  trail  to 
bottom  of  Canon,  starting  down  the  bed  of  the  little 
stream  just  at  the  right  of  Point  Lookout.  It  is  an  under- 
taking which — aside  from  being  dangerous — scarcely 
repays  one  for  the  exertion  necessary,  since  from  any 
obtainable  point  at  the  water’s  edge,  the  Falls  cannot  be 


62 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


seen,  because  of  the  crookedness  of  the  stream  and  the 
precipitous  walls  of  the  Canon. 

The  finest  points  from  which  to  view  the  Canon  are 
from  one  to  two  miles  below  the  Lower  Falls.  None 
should  fail  to  go  down  the  trail  close  to  the  Canon  for  at 
least  three  miles  below  the  Falls,  viewing  from  all  pro- 
jecting and  safely  attainable  points  in  that  distance. 
About  three  miles  below  the  great  Falls,  perhaps  four, 
on  opposite  side  of  the  Canon,  is  a beautiful  fall  of  a 
small  stream.  The  water  enters  at  brink  of  Canon, 
which  at  this  place  must  be  at  least  1500  feet  deep,  and 
nearly  perpendicular.  It  is  a fall  worth  going  to  see. 

This  Canon  trail  may  be  traveled  all  the  way  to 
Tower  Creek.  But  it  was  the  experience  of  those  who 
used  it  this  summer,  and  who  had  before  traveled  the 
old  trail  leading  to  the  left  from  Falls,  near  Cascade 
Creek — that  the  old  trail,  passing  on  the  west  of  the 
summit  of  Mt.  Washburn,  is  much  the  better  trail. 
But  it  perhaps  is  much  as  I heard  a man  say  of  these 
trails  this  season,  “ Whichever  trail  you  go,  you’ll  wish 
you’d  gone  the  other  one.” 

None  will  be,  or  no  one  should  be  in  a hurry  to  get 
away  from  this  camp.  And  this  leads  me  to  mention 
that  the  best  place  to  camp  at  the  Falls  and  Canon,  is 
up  along  the  little  stream  which  passes  under  the  Bridge 
on  the  trail  at  Point  Lookout.  There  is  a trail  leading 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


63 


from  this  Bridge  up  through  the  timber,  just  west  of  the 
little  stream.  The  camping  grounds  will  be  found  in 
less  than  one-fourth  of  a mile  up  this  trail.  This  camp 
is  convenient  to  the  finest  part  of  the  Canon,  and  to  the 
best  points  from  which  to  view  ; but  more  than  all,  con- 
venient to  the  finest  water  and  good  grass  a little  far- 
ther north  on  same  trail. 

The  writer  knows  whereof  he  speaks,  as  he  was 
eamped  at  this  place  ten  days  the  present  season. 

TWIN  FALLS  AND  SAFETY  VALVE  GEYSER. 

About  ten  miles  below  the  Falls  there  is  a trail 
made  leading  down  into  the  Canon.  It  is  called  “Trail  to 
Twin  Falls  and  Safety  Valve  Geyser .”  The  writer,  with  Mr. 
Calfee,  went  to  the  water’s  edge  down  this  trail;  took  our 
horses  until  we  had  descended  to  a depth  of  1200  feet  by 
an  Aneroid  barometer,  then  about  200  feet  to  brink 
of  river  without  them. 

This  trip  can  only  be  recommended  for  the  most 
venturesome.  Very  few,  I think,  will  feel  repaid  for 
the  risk,  time  spent,  and  trouble  experienced.  The 
scenery  is  not  remarkable.  The  Geyser  is  little  more 
than  a small  escape  vent  for  steam.  There  is  much 
evidence  of  there  having  been  a large  geyser  basin  a 
little  farther  down  the  trail  from  this  steam  escape. 

The  enterprise  of  the  worthy  Superintendent  of 


64 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


Park,  shown  in  his  skill  in  finding  and  zeal  in  opening 
ways  to  these  out-of-the-way  places,  is  certainly  com- 
mendable; but  we  are  not  of  those  who  either  go  into 
ecstasies  over  these  minor  objects  of  interest,  or  try  to 
lead  others  into  places  where  they  will  generally  regret 
having  gone. 

CRYSTAL  FALLS. 

Between  the  Upper  and  Lower  Falls  of  the  Yellow- 
stone, are  the  Crystal  Falls  of  Cascade  Creek.  The  trail 
passes  over  a strong  bridge  just  a little  above  these  Falls, 
and  exactly  over  the  beautiful  Grotto  Pool.  Good  strong 
ladders  from  the  bridge  give  the  tourist  the  opportunity 
of  visiting  and  resting  by  the  side  of  this  Pool,  and  of 
standing  at  brink  of  these  Falls. 

The  only  opportunity  for  fishing  in  the  locality  01 
Falls,  is  had  by  descending  this  little  Creek  to  the  Yellow- 
stone. The  fish  are  good  and  plentiful  between  the 
Falls  of  Yellowstone,  but  generally  wormy  above.  On 
leaving  the  Falls  and  canon  for  Mt.  Washburn,  the 
westward,  and  at  present  better  trail  leaves  the  river 
near  Cascade  Creek,  on  the  eastward  bank.  The  other 
trail  follows  the  Grand  Canon  about  four  miles. 

MT.  WASHBURN. 

The  summit  of  Washburn  is  reached  by  turning  to 
the  right  from  the  highest  point  on  the  trail.  The 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


65 


summit  being  about  two  miles  from  the  trail,  tourists 
can  ride  to  the  summit.  On  the  river  trail  the  summit 
is  reached  by  turning  to  the  left  from  highest  point  on 
trail.  The  ascent  is  not  so  easily  made  on  this  side  and 
the  distance  is  greater.  None  should  think  it  too  much 
fatigue  and  trouble  to  go  to  the  summit  of  this  grand 
old  Mountain.  The  view  obtained  from  this  point  is  so 
learnedly  and  attractively  expressed  by  Prof.  Hayden 
that  I again  quote  from  his  report : — 

“ The  view  from  the  summit  of  Mt.  Washburn  is  one 
of  the  finest  I have  ever  seen ; and  although  the  atmos- 
phere was  somewhat  obscured  by  smoke  (not  often  the 
case),  yet  an  area  of  fifty  to  100  miles  radius  in  every 
direction  could  be  seen  more  or  less  distinctly.  We 
caught  the  first  glimpse  of  the  great  Basin  of  the  Yellow- 
stone (he  was  traveling  south)  with  the  Lake,  which 
reminded  one  much,  from  its  bays,  indentations  and 
surrounding  mountains,  of  Great  Salt  Lake.  To  the 
south  are  the  Tetons,  rising  high  above  all  the  rest,  the 
monarchs  of  all  they  survey,  with  their  summits 
covered  with  perpetual  snow.  To  the  southwest  an  im- 
mense area  of  dense  pine  forests  extends  for  100  miles 
without  a peak  rising  above  the  black  level  map.  A 
little  farther  to  the  southwest  and  west  are  the  Madison 
Mountains,  a lofty,  grand,  snow-capped  range,  extend- 
ing far  to  the  northward.  Nearer  and  in  full  view,  to 
the  west,  commence  the  bold  peaks  of  the  Gallatin 
Range,  extending  northward  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
reach.  To  the  north  we  get  a full  view  of  the  Valley 

-5 


bee-hive  geyser. 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


67 


of  the  Yellowstone,  with  the  lofty  ranges  that  wall 
it  in. 

“ Emigrant  Peak  and  the  splendid  group  of  moun- 
tains of  which  it  is  a part,  can  be  clearly  seen ; and  lose 
none  of  their  marvelous  beauty  of  outline,  view  them 
from  what  point  we  may.  To  the  north  and  east  the 
eye  scans  the  most  remarkable,  chaotic  mass  of  peaks  of 
the  most  rugged  character,  apparently  without  system, 
yet  sending  their  jagged  summits  high  up  among  the 
clouds.  Farther  distant  are  somewhat  more  regular 
ranges,  snow-covered — probably  the  Big  Horn.  But  with 
all  this  magnificent  scenery  around  us  from  every  side, 
the  greatest  beauty  was  the  Lake,  in  full  view  to  the 
southeast,  like  a gem  amid  the  high  mountains, 
which  are  literally  bristling  with  peaks,  many  of  them 
capped  with  snow.  These  are  all  of  volcanic  origin, 
and  the  fantastic  shapes  which  many  of  them  have 
assumed  under  the  hand  of  Time,  called  forth  a variety 
of  names  from  my  party.  There  were  two  of  them 
which  represented  the  human  profile  so  well  that  we 
called  them  the  ‘ Giant’s  Face  ’ and  ‘ Old  Man  of  the 
Mountains.’  These  formed  good  land  marks  for  the 
topographer,  for  they  were  visible  from  every  point  of 
the  Basin.” 

In  passing  over  Mt.  Washburn  the  lover  of  rocks 
may  find  many  fine  specimens  of — sometimes — agates,  beau- 
tiful fragments  of  sardonyx,  chalcedony,  and  malachite. 
But  the  chief  attraction  in  passing  this  mountain  range, 
is  the  wonderful  variety  and  abundance  of  most  beautiful 


68 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


flowers.  The  writer  camped  one  night  in  a little  park 
near  the  summit  of  this  Mountain,  in  first  week  in 
August.  We  obtained  our  water  from  under  the  edge 
of  a great  snow-bank,  and  the  water  froze  in  our  camp 
that  night,  forming  ice  one-fourth  of  an  inch  thick ; and 
so  it  was  every  night,  and  yet  the  beautiful  green  grass 
and  endless  variety  of  flowers  in  the  little  park  showed 
no  signs  of  frost,  after  being  warmed  and  cheered  by 
the  bright  sun.  This  is  one  of  the  wonders  of  Wonder- 
land— t-hat  the  flowers  are  not  injured  by  the  almost 
nightly  frosts.  The  distance  over  this  Mountain  or  range 
is  twelve  miles.  Descending  the  Mountain  the  grade'  is 
very  gradual  toward  Tower  Creek , which  is  seventeen 
miles  from  Yellowstone  Falls. 

TOWER  FALLS. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  delightful  camps  in  the  Park. 
Good  grass,  water  of  the  Creek  as  cold  as  ice,  and  every- 
thing in  scenery  calculated  to  cheer,  comfort,  and  rest 
the  tourist.  And  here,  too,  is  the  finest  fishing  place  in 
the  Park.  Not  in  Tower  Creek  above  the  Falls,  but  in 
Yellowstone  about  the  mouth  of  Tower  Creek  ; and  the 
fish  are  all  healthy  and  good  here.  Grasshoppers,  which 
are  usually  plentiful  here,  are  the  best  bait.  Every 
grasshopper  caught  means  a fish,  as  the  writer  from 
experience  can  testify.  Mr.  Calfee  and  myself,  after  a 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


69 


days’  hard  work,  went  down  to  the  river  to  catch  fish 
for  supper.  Mr.  Calfee  captured  seven  hoppers  and  I 
got  one.  We  went  and  fished.  I caught  one  fish,  and 
he  only  caught  seven  with  all  his  hoppers ; so  I did  as 
well  at  fishing  as  he  did. 

There  are  two  Falls  here,  same  as  in  Yellowstone, 
an  upper  and  a lower  Falls.  The  upper  are  just  a few 
rods  above  the  lower ; very  pretty,  but  not  very  high. 
Many  have  pronounced  Tower  Falls  a finer  sight  than 
the  great  Falls  of  Yellowstone.  In  point  of  simple 
beauty,  they  do  compare  favorably ; but  the  feeling  of 
grandeur  inspired  by  the  great  Falls  is,  of  course,  lacking 
here.  The  water  falls,  in  a concentrated  form,  156  feet 
without  a touch  of  wall  or  rock  before  it  meets  the  pool 
below.  Because  of  the  wonderful  rapidity  of  the  stream, 
it  seems  to  be  hurled  from  the  brink  as  if  from  the  nozzle 
of  a great  hose-pipe.  This  Fall  takes  its  name  from  the 
beautiful  pinnacles  or  towers,  which  stand  perpendic- 
ular at  either  side  of  the  brink. 

“Nothing,”  says  Lieut.  Doan,  “ can  be  more  chastely 
beautiful  than  this  lovely  cascade,  hidden  away  in  the 
dim  light  of  overshadowing  rocks  and  woods,  its  very 
voice  hushed  to  a low  murmur — unheard  at  the  distance 
of  a few  hundred  yards.  Thousands  might  pass  by 
within  a half  mile,  and  not  dream  of  its  existence ; but 
once  seen,  it  passes  to  the  list  of  most  pleasant  memories.” 

The  tourist  can  get  to  the  foot  of  these  Falls  without 


70 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


much  trouble ; and  will  feel  greatly  repaid  for  the  fatigue 
experienced  in  climbing  the  steep  trail.  Leaving  here, 
the  trail  crosses  Tower  Creek  upon  a bridge;  and  going 
up  a very  steep  hill,  the  wagon  road  from  Mammoth  Hot 
Springs  is  found.  This  is  the  terminus  of  the  wagon 
road  at  present,  and  will  be  for  some  time.  Three  miles 
farther  brings  the  tourist  to 

JACK  BARONET’S  BRIDGE. 

This  Bridge  has  been  built  and  used  chiefly  by  those 
interested  in  the  Clark's  Fork  Mines,  which  are  eastward 
from  this  Bridge  thirty-five  miles.  Tourists  who  visit 
Specimen  Mountain,  Soda  Butte  Springs,  and  Hoodoo 
Basin,  cross  the  Yellowstone  upon  this  Bridge.  As 
there  does  not  one  tourist  in  500  visit  these  points,  their 
description  is  left  for  another  part  of  the  book  ; and  for 
the  convenience  of  the  general  tourist,  the  tour  is  com- 
pletedhere  without  this  description.  Mammoth  Springs 
is  eighteen  miles  from  this  Bridge,  and  is  the  last  object- 
ive point  of  the  trip.  About  one  mile  from  the  Bridge  a 
beautiful  grassy  valley  is  entered,  called  Pleasant  Valley. 
To  the  southwest  of  this  valley,  just  before  beginning 
the  ascent  of  the  hill,  and  about  four  miles  from  the 
Bridge,  is  the 

PETRIFIED  FOREST 

Or,  more  truthfully,  the  petrified  trees  that  give  rise  to 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


71 


the  name  “Petrified  Forest.”  There  are  but  a few  of  these 
trunks  of  old  trees  still  standing,  but  they  are  real  pet- 
rifactions, and  well  worth  turning  from  the  road  to  see. 
The  road  from  Bridge  to  Mammoth  Springs  is  a pleasant 
one,  mostly  through  open  country.  The  next  object  of 
special  interest  after  leaving  the  petrified  trees,  is  the 

EAST  GARDNER  RIVER  FALLS. 

These  Falls  cannot  be  missed,  as  the  road  passes  very 
close  to  them.  There  is  here,  too,  an  upper  and  a lower 
Fall.  This  Fall  or  Falls  being,  I believe,  the  tenth  Falls 
or  cascades,  mentioned  in  this  tour  of  the  Park.  These 
Falls  will  be  highly  appreciated  by  all  tourists. 

Three  miles  farther  on  and  the  tourist  is  at  the 
Mammoth  Hot  Springs,  the  place  of  starting  on  this 
tour  now  completed. 

HOODOO  BASIN. 

This  singular  locality,  lately  discovered,  is  fifty 
miles  southeast  from  Baronet’s  Bridge.  The  trail  to  it 
is  over  and  through  a very  wild  and  rough  country ; has 
just  been  opened  this  year,  and  is,  on  that  account,  not 
very  inviting  to  the  ordinary  tourist.  In  the  country 
traversed  by  this  trail,  there  is  and  will  be,  until  travel 
is  greatly  increased,  a better  chance  for  finding  game 
than  in  most  parts  of  the  Park. 

This  Hoodoo  region  is  not,  as  the  name  “Basin” 


72  Great  American  Wonderland. 

would  indicate,  a low  flat  place  surrounded  by  hills  or 
mountains,  but  is  itself  situated  high  upon  a mountain, 
is  not  seen  or  detected  at  a distance ; but  once  entered,  it 
is  interesting  in  the  extreme.  Col.  Norris,  in  his  report 
of  this  region,  says : 

“ Hoodoo  Mountain  is  evidently  of  volcanic  origin, 
and  was  eroded  into  its  present  form.  Upon  its 
southern  face  it  is  still  changing.  Here,  extending 
from  500  to  1500  feet  below  the  summit,  the  frosts 
and  storms  of  untold  ages  in  an  Alpine  climate  have 
worn  about  a dozen  labyrinths  of  countless  deep,  nar- 
row, torturous  channels  amid  the  long,  slender,  totter- 
ing pillars,  shafts  and  spires  of  the  conglomerate — 
breccia  and  other  remaining  volcanic  rocks.” 

In  shape  they  resemble  almost  every  conceivable 
form  of  animal,  as  well  as  human  beings. 

SPECIMEN  MOUNTAIN. 

Specimen  Mountain  is  of  little  interest,  aside  from 
the  fact  of  specimens  being  found  there.  These  consist 
almost  entirely  of  pieces  of  petrified  wood.  And  this  is 
difficult  to  find  unless  some  one  well  acquainted  with 
the  locality  be  along,  to  show  where  specimens  may  be 
found.  This  place  is  about  two  miles  from  the  bridge, 
southeast. 

SODA  BUTTE  SPRINGS 

Are  fourteen  miles  from  the  bridge,  and  are  noted  for 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


73 


being  strongly  impregnated  with  soda,  making  a deli- 
cious drink. 

The  scenery  from  the  bridge  to  Clark’s  Fork  Mines, 
thirty-five  miles,  is  very  fine.  These  Mines  are  at  pres- 
ent promising  well,  and  those  interested  in  them  are 
anxiously  awaiting  the  ratification  by  .Congress  of  the 
treaty  made  with  the  Crow  Indians  last  season,  by  which 
treaty  this  portion  of  country  is  given  back  to  the 
general  Government. 

THEORY  OF  THE  CAUSES  OF  GEYSER  ACTION. 

Since  the  question,  “What  causes  all  this  action  and 
heat?”  very  naturally  arises,  and  is  very  frequently 
heard  in  the  Park,  it  may  not  be  out  of  place  to  give 
here,  in  as  simple  a form  as  possible,  the  theory  supported 
by  the  best  geologists  and  scientists,  among  them  the  re- 
nowned Professors  Dana,  Bunsen,  and  Tyndall.  Every- 
thing in  the  region  of  these  hot-water  localities  proves 
this  portion  of  our  country  to  have  been  of  volcanic 
origin.  The  theory,  based  upon  the  conclusion  that  the 
interior  of  the  earth  is  a heated,  molten  mass,  is  that 
there  are  fissures,  or  conduits,  reaching  down  through  the 
earth’s  crust,  in  these  localities,  to  the  heated  rocks  of  the 
interior.  The  water,  which  is  ordinarily  found  beneath 
the  surface  of  the  ground  finds,  the  conduits  and  naturally 
enough  percolates  or  runs  down  them,  in  obedience  to 
the  laws  of  gravitation.  This  water  meets  the  heat  as- 


74 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


cending  through  the  vent,  or  itself  comes  in  contact  with 
heated  rocks,  is  converted  into  steam,  which  ascends, 
heating  the  water  above,  and  in  thus  passing  through 
the  descending  water,  heats  and  boils  the  water  at  the 
surface ; and  in  this  manner  the  boiling  pools  are  ac- 
counted for.  The  geyser  action  is  caused  by  the  de- 
scending water  confining  the  steam  below  until  an  im- 
mense quantity  is  generated,  which,  in  its  final  effort  to 
escape,  causes  what  may  be  termed  an  explosion;  and 
being  confined  in  every  direction — save  that  of  the  ori- 
fice— by  strong  walls  of  rock,  the  escape  is  made  in  the 
direction  of  and  through  the  orifice,  projecting  the  water, 
— which  is  above  and  has  been  confining  the  steam — to 
great  heights ; much  steam  escapes  with  the  water,  but 
the  greater  amount  of  steam  is  thrown  out  after  the 
water  has  been  exhausted.  The  water  is  heated  by  the 
steam  constantly,  working  its  way  up  through  it. 

The  beautiful  and  different  colors  surrounding  these 
pools  or  geysers  are  due  to  the  composition  of  the  rocks 
through  which  the  vents  or  fissures  pass,  and  portions  of 
which  are  dissolved  by  the  water,  and  carried  to  the  sur- 
face, and  there  deposited  in  the  formation  and  channels 
about  the  orifice. 

EARLIEST  PUBLICATIONS  CONCERNING  THE  PARK. 

It  is  indeed  strange  that  this  remarkable  portion  of 
country,  now  set  apart  by  our  Government  as  National 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


75 


pleasure-grounds,  has  been  known  to  the  world  for  so 
short  a time.  It  may  be  authentically  stated  that  the 
Park  has  been  known  to  the  general  public  for  the  short 
period  of  eleven  years. 

Although  trappers  and  prospectors  had  at  different 
times  passed  through  and  seen  some  portions  of  the 
Park,  and  had  tried  to  convince  others  of  what  they 
beheld,  yet  their  stories  were  received  as  characteristic 
lies,  and  the  general  public  lived  on  in  ignorance  of  the 
fact  that  the  greatest  natural  wonders  of  the  world 
existed  within  the  borders  of  our  republic. 

The  first  published  statement  of  these  wonders,  that 
the  author  could  find,  is  that  given  below,  taken  from 
the  Montana  Post.  The  communication  was  dated  Yel- 
lowstone City,  Montana,  August  18,  1867.  Yellowstone 
City  was  a thriving  mining  village,  nearer  the  boundary 
of  the  Park  than  any  town  at  present  is.  The  com- 
munication was  written  by  Davis  Willson,  now  of 
Bozeman,  Montana.  As  will  be  seen,  his  information 
was  obtained  second-handed.  The  article  is  given 
entire  for  the  purpose  of  showing  how  exaggerated 
were  the  ideas  then  obtained  of  what  is  now  so  well 
known : — 

“A  portion  of  the  Bear  Gulch  stampeders  has 
returned.  They  have  been  to  the  Lake  at  the  head  of 
Yellowstone,  and  report  the  greatest  wonder  of  the  age.. 


76 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


For  eight  days  they  traveled  through  a volcanic  country 
emitting  blue  flames,  living  streams  of  molten  brim- 
stone, and  almost  every  variety  of  minerals  known  to 
chemists.  The  appearance  of  the  country  was  smooth 
and  rolling,  with  long  level  plains  intervening.  On 
the  summits  of  these  rolling  mounds,  were  craters  from 
four  to  eight  feet  in  diameter ; and  everywhere  upon 
the  level  plains,  dotting  them  like  prairie-dog  holes,  were 
smaller  ones,  from  four  to  six  inches  and  upwards. 
The  steam  and  blaze  were  constantly  discharging  from 
these  subterranean  channels,  in  regular  evolutions  or 
exhaustions,  like  the  boilers  of  our  steamboats,  and  gave 
the  same  roaring,  whistling  sound.  As  far  as  the  eye 
could  trace,  this  motion  was  observed.  They  were  fear- 
ful to  ascend  to  the  craters,  lest  the  thin  crust  should 
give  way  and  swallow  them.  Mr.  Hubbel  (one  of  the 
party),  who  has  visited  this  region  before,  ventured  to 
approach  one  of  the  smaller  ones.  As  he  neared  its 
mouth,  his  feet  broke  through,  and  the  blue  flame  and 
smoke  gushed  forth,  enveloping  him.  Dropping  upon 
his  body,  he  crawled  to  wTithin  a couple  of  feet  of  the 
•crater,  and  saw  that  the  crust  around  its  edge  was  thin, 
like  a wafer.  Lighting  a match,  he  extended  it  to  the 
mouth  and  instantly  it  was  on  fire.  The  hollow  ground 
resounded  beneath  their  feet  as  they  traveled  on,  and 
every  moment  it  seemed  liable  to  break  through  and 
bury  them  in  its  fiery  vaults.  The  atmosphere  was 
intensely  suffocating,  and  they  report  that  life  could  not 
long  be  sustained  there.  Not  a living  thing— bird  or 
beast — was  seen  in  the  vicinity.  The  prospectors 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


77- 


have  given  it  the  significant  name — ‘Hell !’  They 
declare  they  have  been  to  that  ‘bad  place,’  and  even 
seen  the  ‘Devil  s horns.;’  but  through  the  interposi- 
tion of  Providence  (not  to  speak  profanely),  their  ‘souls 
have  been  delivered,’  and  they  emphatically  aver,  if  a 
‘ straight  and  narrow’  course,  during  their  sojourn  on 
the  Yellowstone,  will  save  them,  they  will  never  gO' 
there  again.” 

This  article  was  copied  throughout  the  country  by 
other  papers,  and  doubtless  served  to  awaken  an  inter- 
est concerning  this  unknown  land;  yet  the  general  pub- 
lic were  indebted  for  their  first  knowledge  of  the 
marvels  of  this  region,  to  the  reports  of  an  expedition 
organized  in  the  summer  of  1870,  by  some  of  the  officials 
and  leading  citizens  of  Montana.  This  was  the  com- 
pany led  by  General  Washburn.  Mr.  N.  P.  Langford’s 
account  of  this  expedition  was  given  in  the  second 
volume  of  Scribner's  Monthly  Magazine.  Lieutenant 
Doan’s  report  of  the  same  was  published  by  the  Govern- 
ment, and  given  to  the  world  somewhat  later..  Follow- 
ing these  came  Prof.  Hayden’s  reports.  The  follow- 
ing contains  so  muqh  concise  information  regarding  the 
early  history  of  the  Park  that  it  is  copied  from  Mr.. 
Richardson’s  book. 


78 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


THE  YELLOWSTONE  PARK. 

(Taken  from  Richardson’s  “Wonders  of  the  Yellowstone”). 

As  soon  as  Dr.  Hayden  could  make  known  officially 
the  results  of  his  exploration  of  the  Yellowstone  Basin, 
action  was  begun  to  secure  the  reservation  of  a portion 
at  least  of  the  marvelous  scenes  which  it  embraces,  for 

the  undivided  benefit,  enjoyment,  and  instruction  of  the 

* 

country  at  large. 

A hill  to  this  effect  was  introduced  into  the  Senate 
of  the  United  States,  on  the  18th  of  December,  1871,  by 
Hon.  S.  C.  Pomeroy,  of  Kansas.  About  the  same  time 
a similar  bill  was  offered  in  the  House  of  Representa- 
tives by  Hon.  William  H.  Claggett,  delegate  from 
Montana.  The  hill  was  referred  to  the  Committees  on 
Public  Lands  in  both  houses,  who,  after  due  considera- 
tion, returned  with  approbation  the  following  report 
prepared  by  Dr.  Hayden : — 

“ The  hill  now  before  Congress  has  for  its  object  the 
withdrawal  from  settlement,  occupancy,  or  sale,  under 
the  laws  of  the  United  States,  a tract  of  land  fifty-five 
by  sixty-five  miles,  about  the  sources  of  the  Yellowstone 
and  Missouri  Rivers,  and  dedicates  and  sets  it  apart  as 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


79 


a great  National  Park,  or  pleasure-ground,  for  the  benefit 
and  enjoyment  of  the  people.  The  entire  area  com- 
prised within  the  limits  of  the  reservation  contemplated 
in  this  bill,  is  not  susceptible  of  cultivation  with  any 
degree  of  certainty,  and  the  winters  would  be  too  severe 
for  stock-raising.  Whenever  the  altitude  of  the  moun- 
tain districts  exceeds  6000  feet  above  tide-water,  their 
settlement  becomes  problematical,  unless  there  are  valu- 
able mines  to  attract  people.  The  entire  area  within 
the  limits  of  the  proposed  reservation  is  over  6000  feet 
in  altitude;  and  the  Yellowstone  Lake,  which  occupies 
an  area  fifteen  by  twenty-two  miles,  or  330  square 
miles,  is  7427  feet.  The  ranges  of  mountains  that 
hem  the  valleys  in  on  every  side  rise  to  the  height 
of  10000  and  12000  feet  and  are  covered  with 
snow  all  the  year.  These  mountains  are  all  of 
volcanic  origin,  and  it  is  not  probable  that  any  mines 
or  minerals  of  value  wTill  ever  be  found  there.  During 
the  months  of  June,  July,  and  August  the  climate  is 
pure  and  most  invigorating,  with  scarcely  any  rain  or 
storms  of  any  kind;  but  the  thermometer  frequently 
sinks  as  low  as  26°.  There  is  frost  every  month  of  the 
year.  The  whole  region  was,  in  comparatively  modern 
geological  times,  the  scene  of  the  most  wonderful 
volcanic  activity  of  any  portion  of  our  country.  The 
hot  springs  and  the  geysers  represent  the  last  stages— 
the  vents  or  escape-pipes— of  these  remarkable  volcanic 
manifestations  of  the  internal  forces.  All  these  springs 
are  adorned  with  decorations  more  beautiful  than 
human  art  ever  conceived,  and  which  have  required 


80 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


CRYSTAL  FOREST,  MAMMOTH  SPRINGS. 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


81 


thousands  of  years  for  the  cunning  hand  of  nature  to 
form.  Persons  are  now  waiting  for  the  spring  to  open, 
to  enter  in  and  take  possession  of  these  remarkable 
curiosities,  to  make  merchandise  of  these  beautiful 
specimens,  to  fence  in  rare  wonders,  so  as  to  charge  visit- 
ors a fee,  as  is  now  done  at  Niagara  Falls,  for  the  sight 
of  that  which  ought  to  be  as  free  as  the  air  or  water. 

“In  a few  years  this  region  will  be  a place  of  resort 
for  all  classes  of  people  from  all  portions  of  the  world. 
The  geysers  of  Iceland,  which  have  been  objects  of  inter- 
est for  the  scientific  men  and  travelers  of  the  entire 
world,  sink  into  insignificance  in  comparison  with  the 
hot  springs  of  Yellowstone  and  Fire  Hole  Basins.  As  a 
place  of  resort  for  invalids,  it  will  not  be  excelled  by 
any  portion  of  the  world.  If  this  bill  fails  to  become  a 
law  this  session,  the  vandals  who  are  now  waiting  to 
enter  into  this  Wonderland  will,  in  a single  season, 
despoil,  beyond  recovery,  these  remarkable  curiosities, 
which  have  required  all  the  cunning  skill  of  nature 
thousands  of  years  to  prepare. 

“We  have  already  shown  that  no  portion  of  this  tract 
can  ever  be  made  available  for  agricultural  or  mining 
purposes.  Even  if  the  altitude  and  the  climate  would 
permit  the  country  to  be  made  available,  not  over  fifty 
square  miles  of  the  entire  area  could  ever  be  settled. 
The  valleys  are  all  narrow,  and  hemmed  in  by  high  vol- 
canic mountains  like  gigantic  walls. 

“ The  withdrawal  of  this  tract,  therefore,  from  sale 
or  settlement  takes  nothing  from  the  value  of  the  pub- 
lic domain,  and  is  no  pecuniary  loss  to  the  Government, 

—6 


82 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


but  will  be  regarded  by  the  entire  civilized  world  as  a 
step  of  progress  and  an  honor  to  Congress  and  the 
nation.” 

In  the  Senate  the  bill  was  ably  advocated  by  Messrs. 
Pomeroy,  Edmunds,  Trumbull,  Anthony  and  others. 
In  the  House  the  favorable  remarks  of  Hon.  H.  L. 
Dawes  were  so  clear  and  forcible  that  the  bill  was  passed 
without  opposition. 

The  text  of  the  Act  is  as  follows  : — 

“ Be  it  enacted  by  the  Senate  and  House  of  Representatives 
of  the  United  States  of  America  in  Congress  assembled , That 
the  tract  of  land  in  the  Territories  of  Montana  and 
Wyoming,  lying  near  the  head-waters  of  the  Yellow- 
stone River,  and  described  as  follows,  to-wit,  commenc- 
ing at  the  junction  of  Gardiner’s  River  with  the  Yel- 
lowstone River,  and  running  east  to  the  meridian  pass- 
ing ten  miles  to  the  eastward  of  the  most  eastern  point 
of  Yellowstone  Lake  ; thence  south  along  said  meridian 
to  the  parallel  of  latitude  passing  ten  miles  south  of  the 
most  southern  point  of  Yellowstone  Lake  ; thence  west 
along  said  parallel  to  the  meridian  passing  fifteen  miles 
west  of  the  most  western  point  of  Madison  Lake  ; thence 
north  along  said  meridian  to  the  latitude  of  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Yellowstone  and  Gardiner’s  River;  thence 
east  to  the  place  of  beginning,  is  hereby  reserved  and 
withdrawn  from  settlement,  occupancy,  or  sale  under 
the  laws  of  the  United  States,  and  dedicated  and  set 
apart  as  a public  park  or  pleasuring-ground  for  the  ben- 
efit and  enjoyment  of  the  people ; and  all  persons  who 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


sa 


shall  locate  or  settle  upon  or  occupy  the  same,  or  any 
part  thereof,  except  as  hereinafter  provided,  shall  be 
considered  trespassers  and  removed  therefrom. 

“ Sec.  2.  That  said  public  park  shall  be  under  the 
exclusive  control  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Interior,  whose 
duty  it  shall  be,  as  soon  as  practicable,  to  make  and  pub- 
lish such  rules  and  regulations  as  he  may  deem  neces- 
sary or  proper  for  the  care  and  management  of  the 
same.  Such  regulations  shall  provide  for  the  preserva- 
tion, from  injury  or  spoliation,  of  all  timber,  mineral 
deposits,  natural  curiosities  or  wonders  within  said 
park,  and  their  retention  in  their  natural  condition. 
The  Secretary  may,  in  his  discretion,  grant  leases  for 
building  purposes  for  terms  not  exceeding  ten  years,  of 
small  parcels  of  ground,  at  such  places  in  said  park  as 
shall  require  the  erection  of  buildings  for  the  accom- 
modation of  visitors ; all  of  the  proceeds  of  said  leases, 
and  all  other  revenues  that  may  be  derived  from  any 
source  connected  with  said  park,  to  be  expended  under 
his  direction  in  the  management  of  the  same,  and  the 
construction  of  roads  and  bridle-paths  therein.  He  shall 
provide  against  the  wanton  destruction  of  the  fish  and 
game  found  within  said  park,  and  against  their  capture 
or  destruction  for  the  purposes  of  merchandise  or  profit. 
He  shall  also  cause  all  persons  trespassing  upon  the 
same  after  the  passage  of  this  act  to  be  removed  there- 
from, and  generally  shall  be  authorized  to  take  all  such 
measures  as  shall  be  necessary  or  proper  to  fully  carry 
out  the  objects  and  purposes  of  this  act.” 

This  Act  was  approved  March  1,  1872 ; and  shortly 


84 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


after  the  Hon.  N.  P.  Langford,  whose  graphic  descrip- 
tions of  the  Wonders  of  the  Yellowstone  first  called 
public  attention  thereto,  was  appointed  Superintendent 
of  the  Park. 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


85 


PRACTICAL  OBSERVATIONS. 

BEST  TIME  TO  VISIT  PARK. 

From  July  1st  to  September  1st  is  the  best  season 
for  visiting  the  Park,  and  even  so  early  as  September 
15th  tourists  are  sometimes  caught  in  snow-storms. 
August  is  really  the  best  month,  as  flies  and  mosquitoes 
are  troublesome  in  July. 

SMOKED  EYEGLASSES. 

As  the  formation  in  Geyser  Basins,  at  Mammoth 
Hot  Springs,  Sulphur  Mountain,  and  at  other  places,  is 
almost  as  white  as  snow,  the  reflection  of  the  light  is 
very  injurious  and  even  painful  to  the  eyes.  All  tour 
ists  should  be  provided  with  smoked  glasses. 

GOING  ARMED. 

There  is  no  need  of  carrying  arms  for  protection  in 
the  Park.  There  is  no  danger  to  life  from  either  Indians 
or  wild  animals;  and  as  game  is  so  seldom  seen,  that  for 
this  purpose  it  is  not  necessary  to  carry  guns. 

AMOUNT  OF  PROVISIONS. 

Take  at  least  double  the  amount  of  provisio  n 


86 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


think  you  will  need,  as  you  will  find  your  appetite  in- 
creases as  the  altitude  increases,  and  as  the  time  you 
are  out  lengthens. 

KIND  OF  PROVISIONS. 

For  a camping-out  season  in  this  mountainous 
region  and  high  altitude,  a great  variety  of  diet  is  not 
required.  Plenty  of  bacon,  flour,  sugar,  yeast  powder, 
and  tea  or  coffee  are  the  essentials  and  substantials,  and 
will  relish  well.  For  fruits,  the  dried  varieties  are  the 
best  and  most  convenient. 

PATIENCE. 

Take  along  a large  supply  of  patience,  as  that  is 
usually  the  first  article  exhausted,  and  the  one  most 
needed  in  a trip  of  this  kind. 

SIZE  OF  PARTIES. 

Parties  should  not  be  too  large,  four  or  six  persons, 
not  counting  attendants,  being  the  most  convenient 
number.  Larger  parties,  I have  noticed,  cannot  travel 
so  well  nor  so  fast.  Nor  can  they  enjoy  the  ease  and 
freedom  of  smaller  parties,  and  there  are  greater  oppor- 
tunities for  petty  disagreements. 

CLEAR  UNDERSTANDINGS  BEFORE  HAND. 

Have  clear  understandings  concerning  all  the 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


87 


details  of  the  trip  before  starting  out,  and  thus  avoid 
quarrels  and  misunderstandings  so  likely  to  occur. 
The  writer  has  seen  the  pleasure  of  many  parties 
marred  by  quarrels  or  differences  which  could  have 
been  avoided  by  having  clear  understandings  from  the 
first.  Companions  for  camping-out  trips  should  be 
selected  with  the  greatest  care. 

COOL  NIGHTS. 

As  the  nights  are  always  cool,  too  great  a supply  of 
bedding  is  not  often  taken.  Rubber  blankets  should 
always  be  placed  between  the  bedding  and  the  ground 
to  prevent  dampness  from  penetrating  the  bedding. 

GUIDES. 

Guides  are  not  much  needed,  but  packers  are;  and 
as  these  two  accomplishments  are  usually  found  com- 
bined in  the  same  person,  it  is  well  to  secure  the 
services  of  one  who  calls  himself  a guide;  and  as  tourists 
are  frequently  imposed  upon  by  men  professing  com- 
petency in  this  particular,  and  who  possess  no  qualifica- 
tions whatever  to  render  them  worthy  of  patronage, 
I will  mention  here  the  names  of  a few  whom  I know  to 
be  entirely  trustworthy,  and  who  have  been  through  the 
Park  many  times  with  distinguished  tourists  : George 

Houston,  chief  scout  for  General  Howard  in  his  memor- 
able campaign  through  this  country,  and  guide  for 


88 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


Ex-Secretary  Sherman  the  present  season;  Nelson 
Gatlin,  who  has  gnidecl  many  English  parties;  George 
Rowland,  Sam  Jackson,  E.  Hofer  and  F.  D.  Nelson. 
All  of  these  will  furnish  both  saddle  and  pack  animals, 
with  complete  camp  outfits,  for  either  large  or  small 
parties,  and  will  meet  tourists  at  any  point  they  desire. 
Letters  to  any  of  these  men,  directed  to  Bozeman, 
Montana,  will  find  them.  The  above  information  is 
given  without  either  the  knowledge  or  solicitation  of 
these  men,  and  hence  is  not  given  as  an  advertisement 
for  them. 


Ore  at  American  Wonderland.  89 

TABLE  OF  DISTANCES 

BETWEEN  PRINCIPAL  POINTS  IN  PARK. 

MILES. 

Bozeman  to  Mammoth  Springs 73 

Mammoth  Springs  to  Middle  Falls  on  Gardiner  River 5 

Mammoth  Springs  to  Rustic  Falls 5 

Willow  Park 10 — 15 

Obsidian  Cliffs...  2 — 17 

Lake  of  the  Woods . 4 — 21 

Norris  Fork  of  Gibbon 6-27 

Norris  Geyser  Basin s — 27 J 

Gibbon  Meadows 5J — 33 

Monument  Geysers  and  return 2 — 35 

Falls  of  the  Gibbon... 5 — 40 

Lower  Geyser  Basin 5 — 45 

Upper  Geyser  Basin 11 — 56 

:Shoshone  Lake 10 — 66 

Yellowstone  Lake 10 — 76 

Natural  Bridge  20 — 96 

Mud  Geysers 14 — 110 

Sulphur  Mountain  4-  -114 

Great  Falls 6-120 

Mt.  W ashburn 10 — 130 

Tower  Falls 10 — 140 

Jack  Baronet’s  Bridge 3 — 143 

Mammoth  Springs 18 — 161 

MILES. 

Lower  Geyser  Basin  to  Mud  Geysers 24 

Mud  Geysers  to  Lake 6 

Jack  Baronet’s  Bridge  to  Hoodoo  Basin 50 

“ “ “ Clark’s  Fork  Mines 35 

Soda  Butte  Springs 12 

“ Specimen  Mountain 2 

Virginia  City  to  Lower  Geyser  Basin 98 


90 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


TABLE  OF  ALTITUDES  OF  PRINCIPAL  POINTS. 


FROM  PROF.  HAYDEN,  GOV’T  GEOLOGIST’S  REPORTS. 


Bozeman,  Montana 

Mammoth  Hot  Springs 

Mt.  Washburn 

Lower  Geyser  Basin.... 

Upper  Geyser  Basin 

Yellowstone  Lake 

Brink  of  Great  Falls... 
Mouth  of  Tower  Creek 


FEET. 

4900 

6100 

10338 

7250 

7400 

7788 

7485 

6207 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


91 


RULES  AND  REGULATIONS  OF  THE  YELLOW- 
STONE NATIONAL  PARK. 

Department  of  the  Interior, 

Washington,  D.  C.,  May  4,  1881. 

1.  The  cutting  or  spoliation  of  timber  within  the- 
Park  is  strictly  forbidden  by  law.  Also  the  removing 
of  mineral  deposits,  natural  curiosities  or  wonders,  or 
the  displacement  of  the  same  from  their  natural  condi- 
tion. 

2.  Permission  to  use  the  necessary  timber  for  pur- 
poses of  fuel,  and  such  temporary  buildings  as  may  be 
required  for  shelter  and  like  uses,  and  for  the  collection 
of  such  specimens  of  natural  curiosities  as  can  be  re- 
moved without  injury  to  the  natural  features  or  beauty 
of  the  grounds,  must  be  obtained  from  the  Superintend- 
ent; and  must  be  subject  at  all  times'  to  his  supervis- 
ion and  control. 

3.  Fires  shall  only  be  kindled  when  actualty  neces- 
sary, and  shall  be  immediately  extinguished  when  no 
longer  required.  Under  no  circumstances  must  they  be 
left  burning  when  the  place  where  they  have  been 


m 


Great  American  Wonderland, 


TOWEK  FALLS. 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


9a 


kindled  shall  be  vacated  by  the  party  requiring  their 
use. 

4.  Hunting,  trapping  and  fishing,  except  for  pur- 
poses of  procuring  food  for  visitors  or  actual  residents,  are 
prohibited  by  law ; and  no  sales  of  game  or  fish  taken 
inside  the  Park  shall  be  made  for  purposes  of  profit 
within  its  boundaries  or  elsewhere. 

5.  Xo  person  will  be  permitted  to  reside  perma- 
nently within  the  Park  without  permission  from  the 
Department  of  the  Interior  ; and  any  person  residing 
therein,  except  under  lease,  as  provided  in  Section  2475 
of  the  Revised  Statutes,  shall  vacate  the  premises 
within  thirty  days  after  being  notified  in  writing  so  to 
do  by  the  person  in  charge  ; notice  to  be  served  upon  him 
in  person  or  left  at  his  place  of  residence. 

6 The  sale  of  intoxicating  liquors  is  strictly  pro- 
hibited. 

7.  All  persons  trespassing  within  the  domain  of 
said  Park,  or  violating  any  of  the  foregoing  rules,  will 
be  summarily  removed  therefrom  by  the  Superintend- 
ent and  his  authorized  employes,  who  are,  by  direction 
of  the  Secretary  of  the  Interior,  specially  designated  to 
carry  into  effect  all  necessary  regulations  for  the  protec- 
tion and  preservation  of  the  Park,  as  required  by  the 
statute;  which  expressly  provides  that  the  same 
“shall  he  under  the  exclusive  control  of  the  Secretary  of 


D4  Great  American  Wonderland. 

the  Interior,  whose  duty  it  shall  be  to  make  and 
publish  such  rules  and  regulations  as  he  shall  deem 
necessary  or  proper;”  and  who,  “ generally,  shall  be 
authorized  to  take  all  such  measures  as  shall  be  nec- 
essary or  proper  to  fully  carry  out  the  object  and  pur- 
poses of  this  act.” 

Resistance  to  the  authority  of  the  Superintendent, 
or  repetition  of  any  offense  against  the  foregoing  regula- 
tions, shall  subject  the  outfits  of  such  offenders  and  all 
prohibited  articles  to  seizure,  at  the  discretion  of  the 
-Superintendent  or  his  assistant  in  charge. 

Approved  : 

S.  J.  KIRKWOOD,  P.  W.  NORRIS. 

Secretary.  Superintendent. 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


95 


WAYS  OF  REACHING  AND  COST  OF  VISITING 
THE  PARK. 

The  route  to  the  Park  most  convenient  and  most 
practicable  from  now  on  will  be  the  Northern  Pacific  by 
way  of  St.  Paul.  This  road  is  rapidly  extending,  and 
by  the  time  tourists  desire  to  visit  the  Park  the  coming 
season,  will,  in  all  probability,  have  reached  a point  as 
near  to,  if  not  nearer,  the  Park  than  the  nearest  point 
of  the  Utah  and  Northern  Railroad. 

With  regard  to  the  accommodation  of  tourists  who 
desire  to  visit  the  Park,  and  others  wishing  to  visit 
Montana,  Mr.  G.  K.  Barnes,  General  Passenger  and 
Ticket  Agent  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad,  author- 
izes me  to  say  that  it  is  his  intention  to  run  a series  of 
excursions  from  St.  Paul  to  the  terminus  of  the  road, 
during  the  present  season,  beginning  with  June  and 
closing  with  September,  running  one  excursion  per 
month. 

He  ran  one  in  September,  last  season,  which  met 
with  universal  satisfaction  to  all  who  accompanied  it; 
and  in  every  way  it  was  a pronounced  success — both  in 
numbers,  accommodations,  and  satisfaction  to  the  entire 
party. 


96 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


The  plan  proposed  is  to  leave  St.  Paul  about  the 
middle  of  each  month,  beginning  with  June,  using  only 
Pullman  Palace  Sleeping-cars  during  the  entire  trip, 
until  the  party  shall  have  returned  to  St.  Paul,  the 
rates  charged  to  include  sleeping-car  accommodations. 
While  it  is  yet  too  early  to  fix  definite  rates,  Mr.  Barnes 
approximates  rates  to  be  : St.  Paul  to  terminus  of  track 

and  return,  about  $60  for  the  round  trip.  Tickets  good 
for  continuous  passage  on  this  train,  for  parties  desiring 
to  accompany  it,  which  will  make  a continuous  run, 
night  and  day,  until  the  journey  is  completed,  that  por- 
tion of  the  trip  gone  over  by  night  going  out,  to  be  gone 
over  by  daylight  on  the  return  trip.  The  rate  for  parties 
who  extend  their  trip  from  end  of  track  thence  to  Boze- 
man, and  from  there  to  the  Park,  will  have  an  extension 
of  time,  and  their  tickets  will  be  increased  between  St. 
Paul  and  terminus,  or  about  $75.  Added  to  this  the 
stage  rate  from  terminus  of  track  to  Bozeman,  and 
thence  to  the  Park,  which  will  be  about  twenty  cents 
per  mile  for  the  round  trip,  will  give  approximate  cost 
of  getting  into  the  Park.  The  distance  from  Miles  City 
to  Bozeman  is  325  miles,  and  from  Bozeman  to  the  Park 
seventy-five  miles.  The  track  is  expected  to  be  running 
to  Coulson,  where  the  road  crosses  the  Yellowstone 
River,  about  June,  and  each  month  will  shorten  the 
distance  of  the  stage  route  to  Bozeman  about  fifty  miles. 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


97 


The  trains  on  which  this  excursion  will  be  carried, 
will  be  accompanied  by  the  General  Passenger  Agent 
himself,  who  will  stop  the  train  at  interesting  points  a 
sufficient  length  of  time  to  visit  and  to  take  in  all  points 
that  will  be  of  interest  to  the  excursionists. 

He  will  also  smooth  the  way  as  much  as  he  can  by 
telegraphing  ahead  for  meals,  and  in  every  way  will  add 
to  the  comfort  and  convenience  of  the  party,  which  lies 
within  his  province.  He  advises,  as  far  as  it  can  be 
done,  for  parties  to  take  lunches  with  them,  extra  wrap- 
pings to  use  in  case  of  an  emergency  on  the  road,  and 
to  read  up  before  starting,  as  much  as  can  be  done,  a 
description  of  the  country.  The  purchase  of  Mr.  Wylie’s 
Hand-book,  descriptive  of  the  Yellowstone,  the  National 
Park,  and  the  Wonderland  of  America,  is  suggested  as 
the  most  reliable  way  of  arriving  at  this  information. 
The  Northern  Pacific  Company  are  having  hotels  and 
eating-houses  built  along  the  route,  and  passengers  may 
rest  assured  that  there  will  be  an  abundance  to  eat  while 
en  route. 

Due  notice  of  dates  and  accommodations  will  be 
published  in  suitable  advertising  matter;  at  the  £ame 
time  it  is  suggested  that  parties  who  desire  taking  this 
trip  will  do  well  to  correspond  with  G.  K.  Barnes,  Gen- 
eral Passenger  and  Ticket  Agent,  Northern  Pacific  Rail- 
road, St.  Paul,  Minnesota. 


98 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


At  Bozeman  tourists  can  procure  everything  they 
need  for  a complete  outfit,  viz : Provisions,  tents,  heavy 
clothing,  horses  (both  pack  and  saddle  horses),  guides, 
etc.,  at  rates  very  closely  approximating  those  given  in 
the  accompanying  list : — 


Saddle-horses  

$ 30  00  to 

$ 75  00 

Pack-animals 

30  00  to 

50  00 

Saddles 

10  00  to 

25  00 

Pack-saddles . 

3 00  to 

5 00 

Wagon  (new) 

100  00  to 

140  00 

Tent 

10  00  to 

15  00 

Flour,  per  100  lbs 

2 50  to 

3 50 

Beans,  per  lb 

12  to 

15 

Coffee,  per  lb 

25  to 

35 

Tea,  per  lb 

40  to 

1 25 

Bice,  per  lb • 

Dried  fruit,  per  lb 

15 

16  to 

20 

Yeast  powder,  per  lb 

40  to 

50 

Bacon,  per  lb 

22  to 

22 

Guides  or  packers  for  those  who  desire 
that  luxury 

$ 3 00  to  $ 5 00  per  day. 

Saddle-horses  hired  with  saddles  furnished  1 50  to  2 00  “ “ 

Pack-horses,  with  pack  saddles 1 00  to  1 50  “ “ 

There  is  a supply  store  at  Mammoth  Hot  Springs, 
and  also  in  Lower  Geyser  Basin,  where  exhausted  sup- 
plies may  be  replenished  at  rates  reasonable  for  the 
locality,  although  much  dearer  than  at  Bozeman  or  Vir- 
ginia City. 

The  above  is  a list  of  prices  as  they  now  exist. 
The  nearer  the  railroads  come  to  these  points  will  the 
prices  be  reduced  correspondingly. 


Great  American  Wonderland. 


99 


I think  I may  safely  state  that  for  the  coming  sea- 
son a trip  to  the  Park  in  large  parties,  employing  every 
convenience  and  comfort  needed  from  end  of  track  to  and 
through  the  Park,  returning  to  the  railroad  at  the  end 
of  twenty  days  from  time  of  leaving  it,  cannot  cost,  every 
expense  included,  more  than  $200  per  person  from  St. 
Paul  round  to  St.  Paul  again.  And  I am  sure  many 
will  go  for  less  than  this.  But  it  is  a trip  that  no  one 
will  ever  regret  having  made,  whatever  the  expense 
may  have  been. 


ESTABLISHED  IN  1866. 


L.  S.  WILLSON, 

BOZEMAN,  MONTANA, 

Clothing,  Blankets,  Dry  Goods 


BOOTS  AND  SHOES. 


Gents  Furnishing  Goods,  Hats  & Caps. 

The  above  lines  are  represented  by 

FIRST  QUALITY  GOODS 

Especially  Adapted  to  the  Country  and  Climate. 

Fifteen  Years  Experience  in  this  Business  could  hardly  fail  to 
Make  My  Selections  Perfect. 


WITHOUT  DOUBT  THE 

Best  Outfitting  Establishment  in  the  Territory. 


PRICES  AS  LOW  AS  IN  ANY  EASTERN  CITY  FOR  THE 
SAME  QUALITY  OF  GOODS. 

Tourists  and  the  Traveling  Public  are  respectfully  invited  to 
take  notice  and  govern  themselves  accordingly. 


"Whiter  Cooper, 

Brick  Block,  Main  Street,  - BOZEMAN,  MONTANA, 

WHOLESALE  & RETAIL  DEALER  IN 

Rifles,  Shot  Guns  & Revolvers, 

AGENT  FOR 

Winchester  Repeating  Arms  Co.,  Dupont  Powder  Co.,  Giant  Powder 
Co.,  Abbey  and  Imbries  Celebrated  Fishing  Tackle,  a Large 
Assortment  of  which  is  always  kept  in  Stock. 

I KEEP  A LARGE  AND  WELL  SELECTED  STOCK  OF 

Winchester  Rifles  of  all  Styles. 

SHARP’S  RIFLES  IN  GREAT  VARIETY, 

Ballard,  Burgess  and  all  Other  Leading  Arms. 

Of  American  Manufacture,  Which  are  sold  at  factory  Prices. 

I also  Manufacture  Re-loading  Implements  of  Superior  Quality,  Ex- 
press Moulds  of  any  Calibre.  Send  for  Sample  Bullets. 

I also  Manufacture  the  Celebrated 

COOPER  RIFLE  SIGHTS, 

COOPER’S  NEW  IMPROVED  EXPRESS  SIGHTS. 

These  Sights  are  used  with  great  success  throughout  the  North- 
West  by  Buffalo  Hunters  and  Sportsmen.  Try  them. 

Especial  Attention  given  to  Outfitting  Travelers,  Tourists,  Sports- 
men and  Hunters  with  everything  in  the  Sporting  Line. 

Cash  Paid  for  Hides,  Robes  and  Furs, 

Address  : 

WALTER  COOPER, 

BOZEMAN,  MONTANA. 


BOZEMAN  LIYERY,  FEED, 

AND 

SALE  STABLE, 

Situated  next  door  to  the  Laclede  Hotel,  the  Only  Brick  Hotel  in 
Bozeman. 

I KEEP  ON  HAND  THE  BEST  TURNOUTS  & SAD- 
DLE STOCK  IN  THE  WEST. 

Travelers  and  Tourists  will  do  well  to  give  me  a call  before 
dealing  elsewhere. 

OUTFITTING  TOURISTS  FOR  THE  PAKK  A SPECIALTY. 


Inquiries  in  Reference  to  the  Necessary  Requirements  for  the 
Round  Trip  and  ESTIMATES  MADE  on  Application. 

My  Long  Experience  and  Thorough  Knowledge  of  the  Business 
renders  it  possible  to  furnish  any  DESIRED  AMOUNT  of  Trans- 
portation on  SHORT  NOTICE.  Give  me  a call. 

E.  L.  FRIDLEY. 


PONSFORI)  & SANBORN’S 

BILLIARD  SALOON 


NEXT  TO  LACLEDE  HOTEL  (BRICK), 


Bozeman,  - Montana. 


Strangers  will  find  in  this  Resort  a fine  supply  of  Articles  to 
Irrigate  with. 


S M.  FITZGERALD. 


Office  at  Northern  Pacific  Stables, 

BOZEMAN,  - - MONTANA. 


WONDERLAND. 


Persons  wishing  to  visit  the  Geysers  will  please  take  notice  that 
we  keep  constantly  on  hand,  Coaches,  Buggies,  Wagons,  Saddle 
Horses,  Pack  Animals,  Experienced  Guides  and  Packers,  and  every- 
thing necessary  for  parties  wishing  to  make  the  Grand  Tour  of  the 


Charges  Seasonable.  Full  information  can  he  obtained  by  ad- 
dressing me  as  above.  Parties  so  desiring  can  make  arrangements 
with  me  to  meet  them  at  the  terminus  of  the  Utah  and  Northern  and 
Northern  Pacific  Railroad. 

We  refer,  by  permission,  to  John  T.  Murphy,  Helena,  and  Geo. 
W.Wakefield,  Bozeman. 


FRANCIS  HARPER, 


General  Blaeksmithing. 


A large  Stock  of  Everything  that  Travelers,  Tourists  and  Farmers 
need  in  this  Line,  manufactured  to  order  and  kept  in  stock. 

Mining  Picks,  Drills,  Iron  and  Steel,  Log  Chain,  Whiffletrees, 
Neckyokes,  Hardwood,  etc. 


BOB-SLEIGHS  AND  CUTTERS 


Give  the  “PIONEER  SHOP”  a Call. 


Lower  Main  St.,  BOZEMAN,  MONTANA. 


HORSE  SHOEING  A SPECIALTY. 


Manufactured  in  the  Best  and  Latest  Styles. 


Frank  Esler, 

WHOSESALE  AND  RETAIL 

Harness  & Saddlery, 

ALL  INDIAN  GOODS  A SPECIALTY. 


BOZEMAN,  - MONTANA, 


Special  Attention  given  to  Outfitting  Tourists  with  all  things  in 
Our  Line. 

WILL.  F.  DAVIS, 

ATTORNEY  AT  LAW, 

COLLECTIONS  A SPECIALTY. 


Town  Lots  for  Sale,  and  a General  Real  Estate  Business  Transacted. 


BOZEMAN,  MONTANA 


J.  Basinski  & Bros. 

— DEALERS  IN — 

FOREIGN  & DOMESTIC  STATIONERY 

PAPETERIES&  VISITING  CARDS, 

EASEL  ALBUMS,  VELVET  AND  PLUSH  FRAMES,  FINE 
LEATHER  GOODS  AND  CELLULOID  WARE, 

Silverware,  Solid  Gold  Jewelry  and  Imported  Specialties  and  Novelties, 

Agents  for  H.  B.  Calfee’s  Celebrated  Stereoscopic  Views  of  the  Yel- 
lowstone National  Park. 

Main  Street,  - BOZEMAN,  MONTANA, 

BRANCH  HOUSE,  MILES  CITY,  M.  T 

GEO.  R.  NICHOLS, 

DEALER  IN 


STOVES  AND  TINWARE, 


IRON,  STEEL,  AND  HARDWOOD,  QUEENSWARE,  GLASS- 
WARE, LAMPS  AND  CHANDELIERS,  SASH,  DOORS, 
AND  BLINDS,  PLOWS,  RAKES,  SHOVELS, 

AND  ALL  KINDS  OF 

FARMING  IMPLEMENTS. 

Main  Street,  Bozeman,  Mont. 


tJ.  H.  Taylor, 

DEALER  IN 

BOOKS 

STATIONERY  and  FANCY  GOODS, 

Parlor  Brackets , Picture  Frames  and  Moldings,  Silver-Plated 
Ware,  Wall  Paper,  Toys  and  Notions. 

POSTOFFIGE  BUILDING, 

BOZEMAN  - - MONTANA. 


A.  F.  SCHMITZ. 


PAINTER 


Painting  in  all  its  Branches. 

Paper  Hanging  and  Glazing. 


BOZ  BMAN 


MONTANA.. 


NELSON  STORY, 

BANKER* 


BOZEMAN,  - MONTANA. 


Transacts  a General  Banking  Business. 


Buys  Territorial,  County  and  Government  Securities  and  Warrants, 
Exchange  on  the  Commercial  Centers  of  the  United 
States  Bought  and  Sold. 

Collections  Made  and  Proceeds  Remitted  Promptly. 


DEPOSITS  RECEIVED  AND  INTENEST  ALLOWED  ON 
THE  SAME,  IF  LEFT  FOR  SPECIFIED  TIME. 


^NORTHERN  PACIFIC  HOTEL,*- 

Main  Street.  BOZEMAN,  MONTANA. 


This  House  is  Centrally  Located  and  First-Class  in  Every 
Department , with  Livery  Stable  in  Connection. 


RATES: 

Boarding,  Per  Day,  - - $l.SO 

Board  & Lodging,  Per  Day,  - $2.00 

GEO.  W.  WAKEFIELD, 

PROPRIETOR. 


LOCKEYS’  OUTFITTING  DEPOT. 

Dealers  in 

STAPLE  AND  FAN6Y  I5R0SER1ES, 

Hardware  & General  lerclandise, 

Manufacturers  of 

Lockeys’  Crackers,  Hard  Bread,  Etc., 

Horrhe-rrhCLde  Candy  a Specialty. 

FLOUR,  GRAIN  AND  PRODUCE, 

BOUGHT  AND  SOLD. 

IAIN  STREET,  - - - BOZEMAN,  MONT. 

Special  attention  given  to  outfitting  tourists  for  the  National  Park. 

ESTABLISHED  186G. 

KLEINSCHMIDT  & BRO. 

Helena,  Butte,  Deer  Lodge,  Benton,  Bozeman,  Jefferson,  Boulder 
Dillon,  Radersburg,  Silver  Bow,  Bridgeville  and 
Walkerville. 

Purchasing:  Office No.  8 Wabash  ay.,  Chicago. 

Wholesale  and  Retail  Dealers  in 

GROCERIES, 

Wines,  Liquois  and  Cigais, 

CLOTHING, 

gents’  furnishing  goods,  boots  and  shoes,  hats  and  caps,  dey 

GOODS  AND  NOTIONS. 

Forwarders,  Freighters,  and  Commission  Merchants. 

Old  and  new  friends  will  find  us  at  the 

AVAN  X COURIER  BLOCK. 


ESTABLISHED  1871 


THE  AVANT  COURIER. 

PUBLISHED  EVERY  THURSDAY,  AT 

Bozeman,  Gallatin  Go.,  Montana. 


$3.50  Per  Annum,  in  Advance  ; Six  Months,  $2.00;  Three  Months, 
$1.00  ; Single  Copies,  10  cents. 


The  Avant  Courier  is  thoroughly  Independent  in  all  things,  Neu- 
tral in  nothing.  It  is  spicy,  newsy  and  reliable.  Its  Editorial  columns 
always  show  intelligent  thought  and  careful,  energetic  work.  It  has  the 
largest  and  ablest  corps  of  contributors  of  any  paper  in  the  Territory.  In 
proof  of  its  growing  popularity  under  present  management,  we  need  but 
state  that  it  has  quadrupled  its  circulation  during  the  past  four  years. 

Job  Printing  of  every  description  a specialty. 

W.  W.  ALDERSON,  Editor  and  Proprietor. 

Courier  Building,  Bozeman  Montana. 


S.  W.  LANGHORNE, 

Brick  Block , Main  St.,  BOZEMAN , M ONT 


-DEALER  IN- 


Paints,  Oils, 


WINDOW  GLASS 

PERFUMERY  & TOILET  ARTICLES, 


-ALSO  DEALER  IN- 


GARDEN,  FIELD  & FLOWER  SEEDS. 

OF  RELIABLE  QUALITY.  GIVE  ME  A TRIAL. 


W-&\VaL 


